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Thread: Cube Mounting

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Canton, GA USA
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    Question Cube Mounting

    Hi All,
    I'm building a dual-red module out of a couple of 130mw, 650nm units I got from Lasershowparts (thanks Dave!). I've seen a couple of ways of mounting the cube. One way is to mount the cube with the bottom attached to an adjustable mount (like an MM-1) (placed horizontally). The other way is to mount the cube with its side attached to the same kind of mount (placed vertically). What's the best way? Is there another way I haven't described that's better?
    Thanks!
    Tim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    284

    Default

    I just finished my dual-red.
    Have a look... http://tinyurl.com/6rlajl
    The cube held in place by a tiny drop of superglue
    It can be adjusted horizontally and vertically.

  3. #3
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    Mar 2008
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    Default

    Hi Decix,
    Nice job!!

    I can't figure out how things are adjusted (high density, here...)

    Where did you get your diodes/drivers?

    Tim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    284

    Default

    There are 4 Screws at the back of the holder.
    The upper part of the cube-holder (originally a dichro-holder) is designed to
    become "slightly malformed" by tightening or losening those screws.
    Here's another pic: http://www.laserfreak.net/forum/view...=101949#101949

    Diodes are 130mW Opnext HL6545MG. See attached Datasheet.
    Drivers are from german LaserFreak "Guido" (http://www.mylaserpage.de).
    I adjusted them to 170mA.
    Last edited by decix; 10-25-2008 at 23:15.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
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    Smile

    I suggest you mount the pair of lasers side-by-side and use a bounce mirror to send one beam into the side of the PBS cube, while allowing the other beam to pass straight through. That way you can adjust the near-field alignment of the two beams using the mount on the bounce mirror, and then adjust the far-field alignment using the mount that holds the PBS cube. (Otherwise you have to have the near-field alignment *perfect* when you mount your diode block to the baseplate, and that's hard to do.)

    I glued an "L" bracket to the face of my mount (a vertically-mounted MM2) using some JB Weld. Then I placed the PBS cube on the horizontal leg of the "L" bracket and glued it in place with another drop of JB Weld. (Any decent 2-part epoxy will work.) You want the cube to be perfectly level.

    Adam

  6. #6
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    Default

    Hi Adam,
    Thanks for the response.
    Just out of curiosity, why didn't you attach the cube's side to the vertically-mounted MM-1 instead of using the L-bracket?
    Tim

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Smile

    I wanted to be sure that if I ever had to remove the cube, I wouldn't damage it. I figured that I might booger-up the "L" bracket where it was glued to the mount if Ihad to rip it off, but that wouldn't matter since I could always re-glue that part. I was worried that if I glued the cube directly to the face of the mount, I'd never be able to get it removed without ruining the cube. (Remember, I paid $120 for my cube!)

    As it turned out, I didn't have any problems with the layout, so I never had the need to remove the cube...

    Also, I just remembered that I used JB-Quick rather than JB-Weld. (The only difference is that JB-Quick cures in 5 min or less, while JB-Weld takes 12 hours to cure.)

    Adam

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Canton, GA USA
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    Default

    The first question that comes to mind is...

    Why did your cube cost $120? Are there breasts attached to it?

    Tim

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Default

    I bought my cube from Marconi a couple years ago... It's a Mells-Griot cube. Probably 10 times better quality than I needed, but at the time I didn't have a source for PBS cubes. Even Marconi was hesitant to sell it to me, because he knew it was stupidly overpriced. (He sold it to me for his cost, BTW. No profit involved.)

    Now I'd just get one from Bridge. But of course, now I don't need one. Sigh.

    Adam

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