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Thread: dichro AR, HR

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    93

    Default dichro AR, HR

    Hi,

    I received dichro's from laserwave, but I have some trouble finding out what the AR, HR sides are.

    At first I also accidentally swapped them without me labeling them
    Is it correct that the pass green and blue, reflect red looks red when you see through it, and the pass green, reflect blue looks yellow.

    any tricks for this ?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
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    2,478

    Default

    YOU GOT IT!

    are they 45 deg. AOI dichros? if so, look at an angle. it will be obvious which is which. Reflect red will look, well....RED.
    the reflect blue will look blue.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    93

    Default

    these are the dichro's:
    http://laser-wave.com/eproduct_show....assid=43&id=35

    I was just wondering if there is a frontside or a backside on a dichro.
    If you look at this picture: http://laser-wave.com/pic/2007122416271453375.jpg there is.

    But they seem to work the same no matter if you swap front or backside (AR vs HR). If I had a powermeter I could measure it..

    I cant seem to distinguish AR and HR with the naked eye.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
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    Default

    yes, there is a front side and rear side.

    you *should* be able to tell with your eye. hold it up to a light and look at the edge. you should be able to see the reflective coating.

    also, when looking at it, if you are looking through the back side (or second surface) it should look as if you are looking through a thin layer of glass, and THEN seeing the reflective coating. (this is the back).

    you can also hold it very close to like a desk lamp or something and slowly move it back and forth while looking through it. you will be able to tell if there is a layer of glass before the coating.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    93

    Default

    Thanks dude, that trick worked perfectly!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
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    Default

    no problem. glad you figured it out.

    tell us what you're buildin!



    -Marc

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    93

    Default

    i'm trying to build my first RGB projector for home use only.
    I have:
    - 120mw red (635) Laserwave
    - 100mw green CNI (I will dim the green down a bit to 50mw for color balance.)
    - 70mw blue Laserwave
    - 2 dichros + 3 axis mount
    - 1x ScanPro20k from lasershowparts
    - FB3 DAC (+building my single end to differential board)
    - cheap antari fogger

    All this will be built into a supercompact case.
    It's gonna be on a HDF board instead of metal, it's a bit easier to work with.
    I dont expect a too much heat from those low powers anyway.

    I chose very low powers because I only want to use this in my living room (4x8m) at parties.

    I'll post pictures when it's finished!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,489,073

    Smile

    Nice starter system you've got there! That projector will look fine in your living room so long as you can get the room completely dark and you have some fog in the air.

    HDF base eh? Well, it's easier to work with, but it has some drawbacks. Be sure you've got enough stiffness in the baseplate so that your alignment won't change. Also, you'll need to watch out for high moisture environments. Any swelling of the HDF will completely screw up your alignment.

    The two main reasons people use a metal baseplate are heat dissipation and rock solid alignment. While you're correct in that the heat dissipation issue probably won't be a factor for your projector, alignment may well be a serious issue if you use HDF.... Maybe you can paint it after you drill it to seal moisture out?

    Keep us posted of your progress...

    Adam

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    93

    Default

    It is 2 sided laminated HDF that is used for fake walls and ceilings. So it is very stiff!

    I also have a 5mm aluminum plate that i first wanted to use, turns out the HDF was stiffer

    The only problem is mounting the dichro's. I had to mod one 3axis mount (from bridge) so that the fat red beam can get through (the same mod has been posted on this forum once). If it turns out to be too difficult, i will mount the dichro's on L-shaped mounts.

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