RGB Project

[CDBEAM]

To: Builders of RGB projectors
From: CDBEAM
Re: Thoughts on projector design, ONE way to do it !

In that my RGB Projector#1 is nearing completion… I would like to offer some thoughts I have on projector design. Let’s first state that any of us….which would undertake such a project, are truly designing and building as we go. For most, this will be the first projector…and maybe the last !!! For some….there will be future iterations !!! For others…..”NEVER AGAIN” may be the order of the day !!
It begs the question….Why would you build another ??? More Power ? Converting to DI Blue or 635 Red ? Better optics ? Better optic layout ? Additional colors ? More compact design ? Adding safety features ? Improved Beam Table rigidity ? Additional Fans or fan monitoring ? New scanners ? New software ? …..and a dozen other things I have failed to mention !! So there then….many, many reasons why the current projector might need to be replaced by the next generation.
But, is it efficient to start ALL over ???? If the design of the first unit could be such that….Modifications / additions are considered IMPORTANT…right from the start and are assumed as issues that WILL happen…..then design / build with this in mind !!! Have maximum flexibility as a core value …not an after thought.
Starting with the above philosophy…ONE way to arrive at maximum flexibility is a multi-level adjustable stacked design. By this I mean a series of levels or plates, at least (2) two, with the levels being connected by (4) four SS 3/8” (10mm) allthread rods. The levels could be 3/8” (10mm) plain Aluminum plate. OR…the levels could be ¼’ (6mm) plain Aluminum plate with square aluminum bar stock secured to the perimeter to achieve acceptable rigidity. The levels are secured with SS nuts, one atop the each level and one below each level…going up/down on the allthread rods, at the (4) corners of the layout. I do not think pre-drilled / pre-tapped holes are at all useful ! Drill and tap as needed !
This approach achieves several goals ; Keeps the Optics isolated from all other components, Keeps the Optics on top where adjustments and cleaning can be done, Minimizes the projector footprint, and lastly, Provides complete flexibility in selecting level-to-level dimension. I look at it like a “ Post and Beam” style construct….Frame + cover. The advantage of adjustable levels comes into play in (2) two ways… as you build…the distance between levels can be driven by the various components and you can adjust as required, and…if (read when ) later modification is desirable…..you can adjust the level-to-level distance to suit… whatever your new additions need !
During the construction…..as the various components arrive, I started laying them out….and moving things around. Yes….I know….rather basic…no Cad/Cam, no 3D renderings….just “ movin the furniture around” fun !!! For me….this was the best way…..to “ fit“ the various components together. I do CAD….but the time you need to do a good job….covering ALL the details…Forgetaboutit !! My Projector#1 uses a 12 ½” ( 317.5mm ) deep by 14 ½” (368.3mm) per level dimension. There are (3) three, ¼”levels, with the upper and lower level having ½” (12.7mm) Aluminum bar stock bolted to the perimeter.
Lower level has Laser PS’s(3), Scanner PS, (2) fans, Fan monitor, PLC thermal controllers and power control sub-assembly…. And many, many terminal strips. The middle level has the 12vdc PS, ILDA input sub-assembly, (2) two SSR, (2) fans and Scanner amps. The upper level has RGB lasers, Dichros. Bounce mirror,and Scanner atop…and bolted to the underside TE/fan units and Laser drivers (2).
As of this time, I have yet to cover/skin Projector#1. The (4) four allthread rods will then provide the top cover support and secure points. I have no shutter, but have room for one.. The (1) one downside I see to this construct is the need to connect the various levels with power/control wires. ALL terminal strip connections should be kept at the perimeter….so the unit can be takes apart, level by level…in an orderly fashion and you have easy access to break/make the connections. I suppose…the other downside is the need to replace cover plates….should your projector grow in vertical dimension !!!!
I have given projector layout / design a fair amount of thought !!! Perhaps I am bias because THAT is the way my build is…mmmmm???? Maybe ?? but the above argument seems to be grounded in flexible engineering concepts !!! You may have noticed that….I have and do identify my projector as “ Projector#1”….this would imply the likelihood of a sequel….viz…” Projector#2”….You damm betcha !!! Building the first one was very rewarding….it is likely, that someday…I will do another !!! or...if maybe, modify Projector#1...with a flexible design, this is not as big a deal !!
Have fun !!! Enjoy your build !!! Be careful !!! Watch your eyes !! …+/- does NOT =….-/+ !!!
Note: I will put more pics in my gallery within the next several days !
CDBEAM
Ventre a` Terre

[allthatwhichis]

Nice! Should have posted this in RGBFan's thread aboutwanting a manual...

[CDBEAM]

All That,

Are you implying that my post is " manual-like " That I " Drone on and on"
( Wife sez this ) ??? That I am a student at the Buffo school??? To that I say...thanks !!!....(HAHAHA )

I am glad you liked my post !! There are many, many roads that lead to an
operating RGB Projector!! The multi-stack design is but ONE !! If only I could get paid per word !!!

Later,
Bob

[Miss A.]

Hi Mike,

You can save a lot of space if you mount the boards vertical instead of horizontal. According to your photo the laser module and the laser driver gives the highest point of the box, so there is al lot of 'un-used air'.
I'm also started to build a RGB system and it's also cool to see all the components at one level.

Keep up the good work and please post more pictures of it !

A.

[Hemlock Mike]

With a "hundred" adjustments, I want to keep the laser optics on top where I can get to them. I can always move or change a pot on a power supply board. That's why I'm thinking of hinging the top story for quick access to the basement. Heat doesn't seem a big problem when I've only got ~400 mW total.

Mike

[loopee]

Mike
Or you could do something similar to my projector arrangement where the power supplies are mounted on the bottom of the base plate (upside down)

The Top


The front showing the power supplies mounted on the underside of the base plate upside down


The underside

Large photos in my gallery http://www.photonlexicon.com/gallery...pee/RGB+Build/

This way to get access all you need to do is flip the projector over and remove the cover and you end up with un-hindered access to everything.
The only consideration you need to be aware of in this design is in the placement of holes and making sure they don’t clash, out of something like 100 holes in my base plate only one clashed.


CDBEAM

During the construction…..as the various components arrive, I started laying them out….and moving things around. Yes….I know….rather basic…no Cad/Cam, no 3D renderings….just “ movin the furniture around” fun !!! For me….this was the best way…..to “ fit“ the various components together. I do CAD….but the time you need to do a good job….covering ALL the details…Forgetaboutit !! My Projector#1 uses a 12 ½” ( 317.5mm ) deep by 14 ½” (368.3mm) per level dimension. There are (3) three, ¼”levels, with the upper and lower level having ½” (12.7mm) Aluminum bar stock bolted to the perimeter.

That’s all fine as long as you have the devices to place and move around.

This is one of the reasons that I started making up technical drawings and sharing them. I chose Visio as a drawing package over CAD as it’s easier to drop and place parts and more accessable to people than CAD. (I was thinking of doing them in sketchup)
I also decided to share these in the hope that other user would contribute details of other manufacturers and the hope that those manufacturers may start to produce something (I know when I first started to design for my projector the one thing I found most frustrating was the lack of technical details for the size and mounting of the components. Even finding out the DC power supply details is hard)

If you haven’t grabbed the drawings yet they’re in this thread http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5199
Unfortunately at this stage they only contain drawing of devices I have as it all I’ve got to measure off (or from data sheets I’ve found)
Troy

[Insanity]

Just to chuck in my two pence worth..

It is best practise to have the optics separate from the electronics. In my RGB, the optics are in the left hand side of the box and the electronics are on the right, separated by a partition. All cooling is in the electronic side which keeps the optics free of dust.
I built a greenie with a view to adding more colour later and this is on two levels. Electronics (Fan cooled) at the bottom and optics on top. Same reason, no dust in the optical part. Also with this design, the fans are blowing over the bottom of the ally plate where the laser modules are mounted. Therefore keeping the electronics and lasers cool while keeping dust off the optics.
The best tip re electronics layout on either design, is make sure the scanner tuning pots are easily accessible. And finally, if you are doing shows, put the aperture in the middle of the projector. If you need to do a two laser show, both boxes are symmetrical. I have worked with a few stage/production managers who insist on symmetry on their stages.
There are arguments for both designs. On the one hand, the RGB looks nice and sleek, but the split level greenies are much easier to carry around...

Cheers
Mark

Here are a couple of pics for ya to mull over