Scanner box, builders block

[Stuka]

think i need that.. the aluminum is very sturdy
and where is the gallery..

Yep - you might be surpised how easily even 1/4" aluminum will warp once you start drilling and mounting stuff on it! The aluminum tubing frame would be a one-time thing, and for the size plates you're using, probably wouldn't cost $20 to $30, tops!

[White-Light]

For the 405nm I've heard via an ebay seller who specialises in these that you need a custom coating on the scanner mirrors designed for 405 otherwise your losses will be horrific.

However, I can't independatly verify this but probably worth looking into.

[keeperx]

the driver for red and violet are DrLava FlexMod, the amp is also the DrLava audio dac amp... and all 3 parts are DrLava assembled.

the green is a laser-rich.com item from ebay (seems very well built and is tec cooled)

and could i get some sugestions for builds to look at.. that album is massive

[keeperx]

BTW do you think i have the right parts for a good start??

[Stuka]

Since you already have 2 12x12 1/4" plates, you might want to consider a double-decker design, which is actually pretty common. Whiteg's gallery has good shots of that type of construction:

http://www.photonlexicon.com/gallery/v/users/whiteg71/

It sounds like you've got most everything you need as far as the primary hardware goes, but there'll be plenty to add along the way as far as electronics, too. You DEFINITELY need to build in provisions for a remote kill switch, and it will save you time and effort in the long run if you go ahead and build the electrical & signal connections to meet ILDA specs. That way, when you upgrade down the road to a professional controller system (sorry, it happens to most everyone!!), it will pretty much be a case of just disconnecting and reconnecting a cable or two, at least at the projector end!

Why don't you post a picture of the primary parts you have on hand, let folks who have already built take a look, and we'll go from there! Also, don't get in TOO big of a hurry, since you'll probably go through several "engineering changes" as you find out new ways of doing things.

By the way - has anyone bothered to tell you yet that this can be a REALLY expensive hobby?

[keeperx]

yeah.. i agree with all that...


ill check out the gallery.. and pics will be up tomorrow..

double decker was my plan...

stay tuned

[keeperx]

well i forgot to post pics (ill try to remember later) but i did take them so...

I am building 12"x12"x11" plywood box that will have one plate at the bottom and one plate (the beam table) like 4-5 inches from the top.

[Stuka]

If you're going with plywood (nothing wrong with that for a hobbyist's system), you DEFINITELY need to seriously consider adding the aluminum tubing frame to your optics shelf. It doesn't need to be huge tubing - just big enough to runs some bolts through. This will allow you to bolt the frame to the optics shelf and the sides of your enclosure, basically "gluing" everything together at the most rigid part of your whole case.

Also, it would probably be a good idea to line the plywood around the optics shelf (inside the enclosure) with thin sheet metal painted a flat color, or some sort of theatrical black foil. Lasers directly striking a wood surface in close proximity could lead to an interesting "smoke" effect INSIDE the projector!!

Don't forget to include provisions for a couple of fans in the lower section!!

[keeperx]

hey.. great idea.. i have a bunch of that lying around from when i tried to build the box out of sheet metal..

i have some nice sturdy bar that im going to attach to the bottom of the beam table..

i have a big drill press.. think i should drill my beam tab every inch of just wait and only drill where i need it?

[Stuka]

....

i have a big drill press.. think i should drill my beam tab every inch of just wait and only drill where i need it?

Just drill as you need!

Some of us (myself included - NEVER again!) have purchased pre-drilled & tapped optical breadboards in an attempt to save time aligning everything. Well, as it turns out, trying to get everything to line up with pre-drilled holes - and then modifying mounts when they DON'T line up - has generally proven to be more frustrating and taken more time than just drilling & tapping as needed!!

The predrilled boards are generally VERY nice pieces of hardware, and are probably GREAT for optics testing, linear beam tables, or situations where you KNOW you'll be using mounts that are all sized for the pre-drilled holes. However, most of us "mix n' match" components from a lot of different sources, and it's amazing how often things DON'T line up!