peltier driver

[Things]

LOL I had a nice big 4A peltier that I stuck my tongue to. The results, a fair bit of blood :x

[buffo]

Dont lick a cold peltier....

Mow yew tzell me..

HAHAHAHAHAHA!

I actually had to read it twice before I got that! Now my boss is looking at me funny - wondering what the hell I'm laughing at...

Priceless, Steve-O!

Adam

[dave]

That is a downside, at least it isn't ball grid array...

Regardless, you are going to need solder paste and a hot air station...

[mixedgas]

I like silver loaded epoxy for bonding to peltiers. remember your peltier expands and contracts , so dont crush it.

try "artic silver" IN GOOGLE.

sTEVE rOBERTS

[Zoof]

remember your peltier expands and contracts

That has some implications for multidiode alignment and point stabilization too.

[mixedgas]

That has some implications for multidiode alignment and point stabilization too.

On the big ones at where I worked, it used to a be a issue, as we'd be mounting to huge AL blocks, so you needed heat sink grease to let it slide on the hot side, a plastic block milled out to hold it down, and a piece of high quality neoprene rubber between the holddown plate and the peltier. You want to insulate the cold side. We used ceramic fiber insulation alternating with layers of aluminum foil. The AL foil reflects heat, in fact thats how they insulate the copper vapor laser tubes, layers of AL foil in a vacuum, with the ceramic wool, or with mylar spacers as they get closer to room temp. You do not however want to trap the air in between the pelter's ceramic plates, that kinda needs to free flow on the hot side by convection for max cool.

Of course I have also seen coleman cooler pelter assemlies that were crushed between bolts with no give. I wonder how long they last?

keep in mind the peltier is only good as your attempt at making a infinate heat sink is. Also dont undersize the peltier, remmber you have to cool a substantial chunk of collimator.

In the US you can get the woven ceramic wool from mcmaster-carr www.mcmaster.com. I would not use fiberglass house insulation, too hard to handle.



Steve

[loopee]

That has some implications for multidiode alignment and point stabilization too.

Isn't this one of the reason that SS laser takes fifteen minute for optimum output.

Hence if your doing a multidiode laser build the alignment should be done after a warm up period, and hopefully thereafter all laser will come into alignment once the TECs have settled.

[steve-o]

The thermal expansion couldn't be more than 0.1mm or so, I would think just leave a gap that size and fill it with heat-sink compound, and everything should be stable.

[mixedgas]

Isn't this one of the reason that SS laser takes fifteen minute for optimum output.

Hence if your doing a multidiode laser build the alignment should be done after a warm up period, and hopefully thereafter all laser will come into alignment once the TECs have settled.

15 minutes for blue, but you should be able to get 1-2 minutes or less with a modern bipolar driver chip.

Steve