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Thread: First Scanner (RGY)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Verona, Italy
    Posts
    78

    Default First Scanner (RGY)

    Ok i received all the basic items to start my RGY project.
    I have a couple of questions about "pratical things".
    I have a 650nm 300mW and a 532nm 300mW modules with analog blanking, a passing red reflecting green dichro, scanpro 20k galvos set, fb3 controller.
    Now i will need to get an alluminium plate to set everithing, i think 1cm thickness is good but i dont know how large... any idea?
    I'm planning to get enough space to add a blue module and make a RGB scanner in future.
    Is easy to make holes in alluminium with a vertical drill?

    And i have another question about my red module.
    The beam is kinda thick (and slightly point towards bottom but i think theres no real problem cause i can collimate it using a mirror.), i will gladly reduce its diameter to make it pass easily inside the dichro mirror.
    Is there a way to obtain a more concentrate beam?
    The beam become more flat after some metres ( i think it's called astigmatism), can be a problem?

    I dont have other questions for now

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    1,691

    Default

    plate should be 1/4" or better and around 12"x12"

    300mw green is overkill for mixing with 300mw red (tho analog modulation can take care of that), it should be a 3 to 1 ratio of red to green

    sounds like you need to adjust the lens on the red. you should be able to focus it to where you need it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Pflugerville, TX, USA
    Posts
    1,977

    Default

    My plate is 13"x13" and I can barely squeeze all of my RGB components on it. If I did it again I would probably use a double layer approach and mount all of my optics stuff on a small thick plate and all of the power supplies and electronics on something thin and light weight. There is no reason to mount them on a thick plate. Aluminum is very easy to drill.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Verona, Italy
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Uhm maybe is better if i take a 40x40cm (or better 50x50) thick plate to set all the optical stuff and make another "floor" for PSUs and other stuff.
    maybe there will be space to add another red module in future.
    This is the layout i planned



    What about lenses of red module: do you mean the internal lenses or to add correction lenses in beam path?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sheepsville, Wales, UK
    Posts
    3,396

    Default

    Hi Mille

    The problem with most of the red lasers out there (and I think you have a Laser-Wave red - am I right? ) is that the diodes all produce fat beams. Its a limitation of the current technology and makes life difficult for us. You will probably find that you wont be able to focus the red much better - I believe the physics involved will give you more divergence if you make the beam smaller and less if you make it bigger. (anyone more informed please correct me if im talking rubbish) As far as Im aware most higher power reds are made by having a single chip with multiple emitters which is why they are very square in beam profile and can have a striped appearance. The biggest problem is getting them through the dichros and onto the scanner mirrors. You have a GBR dichro if it is a Laser-wave one and passes red and reflects green in which case you can if you are careful get all of that red through - as I have done it myself with a Laser-Wave red laser and the same dichro (15mm).
    I would also recommend the 2 level approach. I have a Laser-Wave demo Projector that has red green and blue lasers & 20K scanners and is built on a 2 tier 500x250mm base - its pretty roomy without it being too wasteful of space.
    Good luck with your project and keep us informed of the progress - post pics - we like pics

    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

    Stanwax Laser main distributor of First Contact in UK - like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/FirstContactPolymerCleaner
    www.photoniccleaning.co.uk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Verona, Italy
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Yes is all stuff i've got from Bridge of LW.
    Ok then i'll keep the red beam as it is and try to collimate.
    What about multiple red modules joined togheter with a PBS cube?
    Is there some prerequisite on laser modules ar anything will work good?

    Thanks to everyone for all the answers, this is a real good forum

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Cluj-Napoca, Romania
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mille View Post
    Is easy to make holes in alluminium with a vertical drill?
    Thanks
    Very easy and it loves high speeds. The only problem is that the bits tend to stick to the tool if you don't have a carbide tipped one. Use Diesel fuel to prevent it. Also applicable for threading tools.
    Magnesium alloys are even better and lighter but harder to find.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sheepsville, Wales, UK
    Posts
    3,396

    Default

    Mille
    The only thing you will need to join with a BS is another laser with polaisation at 90 degrees to the first. If ordering 2 lasers from Bridge (or through any LW agent) you can have them made to be a matched pair (I have some on order like this right now). However if the module you have is 'standard' then I guess bridge will be able to sort out an opositley polarised module when you are ready. The alternative is to mount one of the lasers at 90 degrees to the baseplate.

    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

    Stanwax Laser main distributor of First Contact in UK - like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/FirstContactPolymerCleaner
    www.photoniccleaning.co.uk

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Once it was called "Bel Paese" = ITALY
    Posts
    858

    Smile some ideas for Mille's project...

    Hallo Mille and Hallo to all !

    Take a look of my first RGB setup I done a couple of months ago...
    http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...ead.php?t=4815

    maybe it could give you some idea....


    Here I am, after a long time of silence, to give you news about my RGB baby...
    I proudly introduce you... Its remake!
    I changed the case set: It is not a "double floor" anymore, it's a "one-floor only" now.
    I added a strong couple of handles, so I can transport it easier...

    I know Mates...I know...
    Maybe it isn't so sexy to see..... but.... It's what inside that counts!

    Infos now...
    Dimensions: 40x60x15 cm (15,7x23,6x5,9 inches)
    Aluminium baseboard weight (1cm thickness - 0,39inch): 6,5kg (14,3 lb)
    Total weight: 18 kg (circa) (40 lb circa)
    Fuse values (all "quick-cut" type, 220V):
    1A each PSU's;
    500mA for fans;
    650mA for galvos PSU.
    On the main switch: 2,5A

    I hope this can be helpful for you
    Enjoy pics!

    Greets to all

    Steve
    my webpage
    http://stevemilani.jimdo.com
    Skype ID: stevemilani957

    my RGB analogue projectors:
    3.9 W (640/532/445) 30kpps
    2.6 W (655/532/450) 30kpps
    2.5 W (638/532/450) 30kpps
    0.7 W (test unit)(635/532/473) 18kpps

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Verona, Italy
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Hey Steve thanks for your pics and infos: it will be very usefull

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