Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 24

Thread: Recommend a good fan for a small argon?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Marysville, WA
    Posts
    855

    Default Recommend a good fan for a small argon?

    Hello,
    I just got my hands on a small single line JDSU argon head (2214-30SL) and I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good fan to use with this unit. I've been browsing e-bay but I haven't found anything yet that looks just right. What kind of CFM do these heads need? I was thinking around 200cfm.

    This head has less than 1% total usage and I want to keep her in good shape! Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    448

    Default

    200cfm should suffice. But when it comes to cooling, it's tough to have too much.

  3. #3
    mixedgas's Avatar
    mixedgas is offline Creaky Old Award Winning Bastard Technologist
    Infinitus Excellentia Ion Laser Dominatus
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    A lab with some dripping water on the floor.
    Posts
    9,349

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xytrell View Post
    200cfm should suffice. But when it comes to cooling, it's tough to have too much.
    rotron patriot, easily available new or used, 250 cfm or more into a stalled load, and usually puts out 300-400 cfm for the 110VAC version.

    if used, get one with good bearings. DONT STICK YOUR FINGERS INA PATRIOT, IT is a reincarnated shark :-)

    btw standard dryer duct adpaters will neck a patriot down to a jdsu hose.

    Steve

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Marysville, WA
    Posts
    855

    Default

    I'll have to watch my fingers around it

    Thanks for the info! The tube has the original 'adaptor' still on the end of it, so that should make things a bit easier to get everything hooked up. I'll keep an eye out for one of those blowers. Any idea on how much they usually go for used?

    EDIT: FOund one... wow, I see what you're talking about with the shark thing!!!!

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Comair-Rotron-Pa...3286.m20.l1116

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cairns, Australia
    Posts
    1,896

    Default

    LOL !!!!

    I see those sharp bits on the outside units of air conditioners at school. One easy way to stop kids blocking the fan off I guess

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,489,073

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by mixedgas View Post
    DONT STICK YOUR FINGERS IN A PATRIOT, IT is a reincarnated shark :-)
    HAHAHA! Voice of experience there, Steve?

    Adam

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Marysville, WA
    Posts
    855

    Default

    Is there any way I can run a fan from the tube voltage or the cathode voltage??

    The reason I ask is becuase one of the wires inside the laser was cut, and looked like it had something else clamped in line with it at some point. The only thing I could think of was a fan.

    I'm guessing it's probably best to power the fan separately.... I'm just trying to figure out why this wire was cut. I'll get some pictures!

  8. #8
    mixedgas's Avatar
    mixedgas is offline Creaky Old Award Winning Bastard Technologist
    Infinitus Excellentia Ion Laser Dominatus
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    A lab with some dripping water on the floor.
    Posts
    9,349

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GooeyGus View Post
    Is there any way I can run a fan from the tube voltage or the cathode voltage??

    The reason I ask is becuase one of the wires inside the laser was cut, and looked like it had something else clamped in line with it at some point. The only thing I could think of was a fan.

    I'm guessing it's probably best to power the fan separately.... I'm just trying to figure out why this wire was cut. I'll get some pictures!
    NO, the cathode V is very critical. needs to stay at either 2.65 or 3.2V Dont even Thimk about it.

    your looking odds are, at a wire that changes settings in the psu or a spare.

    Steve

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    4,382

    Default

    Wire it directly to the mains; 115 (or 230VAC-European) from the wall outlet through a separate switch. That way, when you cut the tube power off, the fan stays on and cooling will continue. Dont cool the tube heatink all the way to ambient, though, on power-down; usually cut the fan off at about ~150 degrees F. I put a deep-fry thermometer with heatsink grease on the tube heatsink fins right by the over-temp sensor to keem an eye on things, just for that reason.

  10. #10
    mixedgas's Avatar
    mixedgas is offline Creaky Old Award Winning Bastard Technologist
    Infinitus Excellentia Ion Laser Dominatus
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    A lab with some dripping water on the floor.
    Posts
    9,349

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steve-o View Post
    Wire it directly to the mains; 115 (or 230VAC-European) from the wall outlet through a separate switch. That way, when you cut the tube power off, the fan stays on and cooling will continue. Dont cool the tube heatink all the way to ambient, though, on power-down; usually cut the fan off at about ~150 degrees F. I put a deep-fry thermometer with heatsink grease on the tube heatsink fins right by the over-temp sensor to keem an eye on things, just for that reason.
    I'd love to see what happens if you do that with a tube with fins at potential like a NL or NEC?

    If you wire that fan to the mains, add a interlock relay from the fan to the psu remote interlock.

    steve

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •