Scanpro20 DOA? Setup help?

[keeperx]

Yes, I have red and green LEDs lit on both amps and a red LED on the program board. With all dip switches off, when power is first applied, one mirror twitches once (auto centering?) and the other does nothing.

that sounds like a bad connection.

did you "edit" the wires (red/black/white) that go from the program board to the galvo drivers?

i had this same problem and i cant remember what the issue was.. i know it was a wiring thing...

[Squonk]

did you "edit" the wires (red/black/white) that go from the program board to the galvo drivers?

Hi. Yes, I switched the black and white wires per the instructions in the pdf that I found on the Lasershowparts web site. At least I think it was the black and white wires - in either case the rearranged connection matches what was in the instructions. It should show up in one of the photos above.

[gottaluvlasers]

For the mirror that DOESNT move-

take it out of the equation. (troubleshoot).

1. completely unplug the scanner from the board. does the system now work?? do different lights now come on? does ANYTHING different happen with the suspected dead scanner removed from the problem?

2. with the dead scanner unplugged, apply a VERY SMALL voltage DIRECTLY to the scanner. even maybe just a single AA battery (1.5V) just to see if the direct Voltage can move the mirror. you obviously will have to apply this V to the cable attached to the scanner. make sure it is to the Control V+ and the Control V-
all you are looking for is ANY slight movement with an applied Voltage. if it moves, than you know the scanner works. (99% positive. i suppose there could still be some sort of off the wall problem. but thats VERY doubtful).

3. swap scanner channels. the scanner that DOES mover or zeroes itself out, switch with the scanner that DOESNT seem to work. again, rule certain things out of the equation.

i am suspecting that this is simply a wiring issue. we ALL have done boneheaded wiring mistakes before!! (i know at least i have!! ) i can check wiring 5,000 times and STILL overlook a simple cold solder joint or a reversed polarity somewhere. you just get eye fatigue sometimes.

why dont you also just put a V meter on the output of your control signals that are leading to the scanner that ISNT moving. see if you are getting any sort of an output. i know you would need a scope to see TRUE singal amplitudes and everything, but all we are looking for is V variations and output signalling.

do you also have this wired ILDA?? or JUST DMX?? if ILDA, try inputting an ILDA signal from a DAC.

i believe, and i may be wrong here, but i think the amp for the boards has a built in fuse on it. (someone correct me if im wrong??) check the fuse also. could be deadsky.

let us know how you make out if you try any of this...

-Marc

[keeperx]

i know i had this exact same issue.. down to the mirror centering and everything..

If i remember correctly it may have been that the dipswitches were backwards. 10=1 1=10 ..

i THINK that if the switch is not connected that it goes into demo mode.. try that...

[Squonk]

i know i had this exact same issue.. down to the mirror centering and everything..

If i remember correctly it may have been that the dipswitches were backwards. 10=1 1=10 ..

i THINK that if the switch is not connected that it goes into demo mode.. try that...

Thanks for your help. I did try it the other night with program board taken completely out of the loop and got the same lack of response. Are you suggesting that I leave the program board connected to the amps but just disconnect the cable with the dipswitches on the end?

[keeperx]

yes.. keep the board in the loop and disconnect the dipswitch cable. that MAY throw it in to demo mode..

if not try plugging the dip-switch cable back in and try these patterns

all but #1 on, all but #1 off, all but #10 on, all but #10 off
One of those patterns has got to put it in to demo mode, nomatter how bass ackwards the switches are

[Squonk]

2. with the dead scanner unplugged, apply a VERY SMALL voltage DIRECTLY to the scanner. even maybe just a single AA battery (1.5V) just to see if the direct Voltage can move the mirror.
-Marc

Thanks, Marc. That's what I was looking for - a way to safely apply some voltage to the amp. I've done most of the other things you suggested, but will try them all again. I'm sure it's well within my ability to have made a stupid oversight somewhere along the line while attempting to troubleshoot.

[gottaluvlasers]

lol...

in this business there is NO SUCH thing as a "stupid oversight!" TRUST ME!!!! we've ALL been there!!!

-Marc

[Hemlock Mike]

Frank --

I remembered the mention of the jumpers for reversing the display -- I did it and got my display so I can read it. I also turned RP1 and got the scan within limits.

Thanks -- Mike

[Squonk]

So I finally have an evening away from the hospital, and I've set up the scanners for more trouble shooting. One thing I noticed is that the cables that go from each amp the corresponding mirror seem to be wired differently. That is, the color order of the wires in the harness are switched at one location.

On the scanner amp that appears to at least be able to move its mirror, the order from the front edge working back toward the heat sink is orange, blue, green, brown, black, black, blue, orange.

One the non-functioning amp, the order is orange, blue, brown, green, black, black, blue, orange.

Is there any chance that this could be part of the problem, or should the order be different for each amp? (If I hold the mirror motors with the shaft facing up, I see a corresponding color order at each mirror's connection, so I'm kind of doubtful that this is actually significant) I'd appreciate it if anyone with a Scanpro20 set could confirm, though.

Thanks.