Yeah I normally only keep it to use on my SP168
Rob
Yeah I normally only keep it to use on my SP168
Rob
If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
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Laserists do it by the nanometre.
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I use a rubber handle of a screwdriver to hit the circuit board. No effect. It works fine for about 5 minutes and then start acting up and then goes off completely.
I hired an Italian guy to do my wires. Now they look like spaghetti!
Are any of the components on the board getting hot? (the ones not mounted to heat-sinks)
Here is a red maker
http://www.lion-laser.com/product_show.asp?photoid=355
It's exactly as on picture!
I hired an Italian guy to do my wires. Now they look like spaghetti!
Get a can of cold spray from an electronics store and spray components or joints. You most likely hit one that will fix the problem temporarily. That will be the fault.
I think there is something wrong inside laserhead. If I live it where it is it works fine when I start moving it. It's starting acting up.
I hired an Italian guy to do my wires. Now they look like spaghetti!
Sounds like a cable problem maybe..
Some may not appreciate this but I used to work with lots of old satellite equipment and it was not uncommon to have thermally dependent failures of operation primarily during heating but also vice versa I have many times diagnosed problems by literally sticking a satellite receiver in a freezer and then using a hot air atmoscope smt desoldering tool to heat various components to find circumspect areas as well as cool spray and rarely heating something and cooling its subcomponents. I might use either a towel on its vents to superheat or a heat lamp to induce failures and recovery. One thing we must watch for I have learned is that any condensation, or contamination for that matter dirt, grease, finger, oils, that forms on a diode laser facet can and frequently will cause instant death of same so there is a definite risk in rapid cooling of a laser diode that is not hermetically sealed. I guess running your AC could reduce the water content of air reducing condensation issues, thermal shock could also be bad for a high powered diode laser so this kind of diagnostic should probably be best kept to a driver or support board.
clicking on my avatar will show the tricolor photocoagulator resonator cavity from a Lumenis Varia eye surgery medical laser, which i am attempting to refit. It originally was designed to produce 50-1500mw of 532 / 50-600mw of 659nm / 50-600mw of 561nm (Yellow)
Clicking on my Avatar will show a picture of the inside of this cavity with a 1cm bar diode in the first of 3 OEM postions & KTP holder.
Caviar Dreams on pennies, well lots of pennies.
Look at your solder connections with a magnifying glass and some good light and look for grey crystalline sometimes fractured solder joints sometimes solder joints do not flow well if not allowed to cool during mfg a brief reflow of your high power connections to diode its driver supply controller are a cheap fix always use a grounded soldering iron or a small battery powered unit to prevent undesired esd damage death. I have fixed some many hundreds of remote controls this way, reflowing IR emitter solder connections and battery supply connections.
clicking on my avatar will show the tricolor photocoagulator resonator cavity from a Lumenis Varia eye surgery medical laser, which i am attempting to refit. It originally was designed to produce 50-1500mw of 532 / 50-600mw of 659nm / 50-600mw of 561nm (Yellow)
Clicking on my Avatar will show a picture of the inside of this cavity with a 1cm bar diode in the first of 3 OEM postions & KTP holder.
Caviar Dreams on pennies, well lots of pennies.