Bulding projector, need advice

[Anthony]

i a mechanical shutter really a must in our fast Solidstate laser projectors?

[DZ]

i a mechanical shutter really a must in our fast Solidstate laser projectors?

Here in the USA, yes. Another benefit to having a mechanical shutter, at least in my setup, is that it seems that some red lasers have a constant output of a few milliwatts or less. So without a mechanical shutter, you may end up with a faint red beam when there is no scanning. A mechanical shutter, controlled by Pangolin, will get rid of that problem.

[Stuka]

i a mechanical shutter really a must in our fast Solidstate laser projectors?

I think that very subject has been discussed by folks at the ILDA, but for now, at least, I'm pretty sure it is still part of the "ILDA standard projector" specification, as well as a safety requirement for CDRH certification.


Aside from the obvious safety benefits, and in addition to DZ's observations, an additional beneft in using a shutter is pre-show warm-up. Most of the solid-state projectors I'm familiar with require at least a few minutes warm-up time to completely stabilize. If you incorporate a shutter and wire it so you can manually control it (in other words, turn OFF the shutter driver so the shutter "closes"), you could select a white, full-power image cue with your software, and let the projector run full-power as long as needed for warm-up, without actually projecting an image. Unless you're running some sort of multi-watt rig, the standard shutter arm should be sufficient to "contain" the laser energy as long as you need.

The key to using a shutter correctly is to wire it using what we call (at least in my business) "fail safe" mode - in other words, it takes power to "Turn off" the shutter and allow laser light to pass. A proper shutter device is self centering (spring or other torsion load), so that when no power is applied, whether intentionally or otherwise, the shutter arm "re-centers" and blocks the laser beam going to the scanners. Controlling this function manually, for laser warm-up or other purposes, could be accomplished as easily as just inserting a toggle switch in line with one of the leads going to the shutter - turn that off, and nothing comes out of the scanners, no matter what happens with the software or controller card.

[Anthony]

Is it possible to control the shutter manually with the pango LD2k system?
Lasers fullpower with the shutter manually triggered/closed?

[Stuka]

Is it possible to control the shutter manually with the pango LD2k system?
Lasers fullpower with the shutter manually triggered/closed?

Now THAT would be a cool feature!!

If that's a capability, I haven't discovered it yet - but then again, there's NO way I claim to be anything approaching a "Pango Pro" yet .

Maybe some of the more experienced Pangolin users will chime in...

[DZ]

Is it possible to control the shutter manually with the pango LD2k system?
Lasers fullpower with the shutter manually triggered/closed?

Well, by default, the shutter should be closed. So to open it, just set pangolin to output a frame and it will automatically send a +5V signal on the shutter line. As far as I know, there is no way in pangolin to turn on the lasers without the shutter line going high. So you would need a switch to prevent the shutter signal from reaching the shutter driver if you wanted to turn the lasers on to warm up prior to a show. I had an idea a few months ago of adding a circuit that would send a preset voltage to the lasers if the shutter signal was low. Instead of running the lasers at full output when the shutter is closed, you set the circuit for somewhere around 1/2 output power to let them "simmer". As soon as a shutter signal is received the lasers operate from the ilda color lines, but when the shutter is closed, the "simmer" signal returns and sets the laser outputs to 1/2. I think the biggest problem is safety. What if the shutter fails to close... Better hope you have an EPO close by!

[mophead]

I know you guys like pictures, so here are a few:




Just a little test setup until I can find a suitable baseplate. Built on wood with double-sided tape. The mirror mount moves quit a bit, but just sitting on the desk i don't guess it matters much.



Beam Shot, along with my very messy dis-orginised office.



Another beam shot. Only smoke in the room is from 2 insense sticks.



Test pattern. Wish i had a tripod. Scanners need some tweaking.



As soon as I can find a place to get some thick metal (that is also affordable), gonna get started building proper.

On the way are 2 405 diodes, 2 650 diodes (both from a 4x sleds), 405 pbs, 405 dichro, and associated mounts.

This is all very cool. Can't wait till it is all done where i can start making my own shows, ect.....

peace

doug

[Diachi]

Nice scanner ! what power is that green, it's pretty bright !

-Adam

[mophead]

I bought it as a 200mw - Laserwave. I don't have a power meter, but I'm pretty sure it's putting out quite abit more than 200.

[Diachi]

Nicee ! yeah if it's from laser-wave it'll probably be doing 225-250mW AVG .