Start of the 3watt RGB

[stanwax]

I dont advertise a discount as such but lets just say I will ALWAYS look after the PL users
PM me with exactly what you want and I will give you a price
Rob

[neutrino]

PM sent

Cheers
Rich

[Pitts]

[quote=andy_con;71508]no real reason other than laserwave make a very good qulaity laser. im sure theres a million other reds out there that have a better beam spec than these ones, but are they build well and are they going to last? i dont know!

the loss of combining two reds is tiny, i bet money no one could tell the loss of 10-20mw with there eye. say i loose up to 30mw of red once combined, im gona be getting 1570mw, you just wont notice the loss.

im sure no matter what i post, buy or do someone wont agree and can do it better or knows of a better laser.

but hey ho thats life!

Hi Andy,

Thanks for the reply...

Yes Laser Wave make a very nice economic laser... I have one myself among a number of other brands (CNI & Viasho).

You are of course right we (PL members) will always have "better" ways of doing things but the good part of this is of course we all learn something..
I guess if you didn't want feedback you wouldn't post.

In this regard your post has been most interesting it has bought out for discussion, glue, optics, laser types, static care and baseplate issues.

So from this point of view and knowing that you would be open to "suggestions" by all of us.. thanks for posting..

By the way, the manufacturers I was mentioning like, Kvant, Arctos, H-B laser, Swisslas are all European and are in a whole different league.

Normally these may not be considered due price but when buying two Chinese lasers they start to look more economic. They have way better beam specs and are of course at 640 way brighter... Interestingly I have not found a Chinese manufaturer who makes a 640 yet.

My other point remains with that large beam profile lets say 6-7mm (give or take) lets say your blue is about 2 - 2.5mm and say the green is similar. That means your green and blue may combine nicely, give or take, but only about 50% of your red....... now is it a 3 watt RGB balanced anymore ??

I am shortly to purchase same myself if our dollar ever stops acting like a submarine....

Thanks for sharing..

Cheers

Ray

[andy_con]

indeed i am open to suggestions and views, as you say otherwise i wouldnt of posted.

an example - i went to my metal place tonight to discuss adding two steel tubes across the case under the top alum plate, so that i can screw the alum base plate to this to prevent flexing.

so for all those reading i do take forum advice.

i have to be honest and say ive not read anything about Kvant, Arctos, H-B laser, Swisslas so have no idea if they make good lasers or not.

the beam on the red indeed wont be great compaired to the green and blue and my client may wise to spend more and go for a different option next time.

[White-Light]

Alloy bar will be better otherwise in the long term you'll get bi-metal corrosion. I doubt it will be that serious given the thickeness of the base plate and amount of moisture (although some nightclubs can get moisture saturated), but thought I should give it a mention anyway.

For anyone unsure as to what bi-metal corrosion is, basically if you connect two disimilar metals together and add moisture then, they start to act like a battery and one dissolves the other whilst the disolution is deposited on the other. Usually for aluminium they recommend partnering it with stainless but as stainless is so expensive, aluminium bar would probably be cheaper.

Its interesting to note that I've never seen this mentioned on here before as probably most use ferrous steel bolts through the aluminium plates when constructing but I suppose again if there is an absence of moisture then maybe thats why the corrosion doesn't show its ugly head.

[andy_con]

i do know this actually.

my on scanner my metal place told me to make sur i spray paint the whole box espically where the alum plate is screws to the steel to stop corrosion.

so all i will do is spray these tubes

[ljk]

So if not steel bolts what kind would you use?

[White-Light]

Stainless and aluminium go together OK ljk. Trouble is good quality stainless is quite expensive even in bolts although in small quanities I doubt it would be a major issue.

Only thing to avoid with stainless is some of the Chinese stuff (no offense to anyone Chinese here) but my experience with Chinese manufactured outside "stainless" lights is they rust!!!

A2 stainless should be fine for projectors or spray them as Andy says although on threads paint could turn off. That said, whilst I have seen corrosion inside pics allegedly of cheap far eastern projectors, I've never heard of it being mentioned as a general build problem on here before.

[Laser Ben]

Honestly, do not worry about Stainless and Aluminum corrosion. It is not a problem. I don't know what will happen if you use pure aluminum, but 6061 in my experience does not rust. I have used expensive tools that have stainless parts/bolts directly on aluminum.

[White-Light]

Ben I think you misread. Its ferrous and aluminium that corrode not stainless, thats what I was saying.