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Thread: Start of the 3watt RGB

  1. #41
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    Feb 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave View Post
    Base needs to be thinker!! For our latest RGB, which will be about 7-8w when done, we are using 16mm plate, although we will loose a mm or so, machining the surface flat..
    Nice !

    Keep us updated!

  2. #42
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    Honestly Andy .... we are just trying to help

    i think most of us have been through baseplate issues ....

    you can guess im with the others on this

    The plate for its size is far too thin ....

    i personaly would not use less than 12mm thick ally

    with the combination of heat and weight that plate will flex .... even 10th of a mm will cause major issues at far field

    i dont want to see you moaning on here in the future ..... that you have to keep going back to this customers unit to re-align it .... cos you know we will all just say .... " told you so "

    all the best .... Karl

  3. #43
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    Jan 2006
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    there is no bending or flexing when i add alot of weight.
    You will not be able to detect the flexing with your eye, or with your laser pointer aimed across the plate. The beam on that pointer is at least 2 mm in diameter, so the plate would have to flex at least that much before you notice it with the test you devised.

    As Karl, Dave, and several others have pointed out, your plate is too thin. A flex of .1 mm will be undetectable until you fire up the lasers at a distant target. By that time, it will be too late to fix it. (Unless you have room to add *incredible* bracing underneath, that is.)
    im very greatful for everyones input and help but there isnt any flexing issues.
    I wonder just how grateful, Andy. There are some very experienced builders here that have put together multiple projectors (DZ is on number 10 or 11 now; Dave is probably in the upper teens someplace, and some of the guys here have probably built 20 or more), yet you didn't listen to them about the static precautions earlier, and you're completely dismissing their legitimate concerns about the thickness of your baseplate now.

    Do you think they're tying to lead you astray? (Why on earth would anyone do that?) Or do you simply think you're wiser than all of the people that have replied to you in this thread?

    Adam

  4. #44
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    Jun 2006
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    Charlotte, NC
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    agreed, my first homebrew was on a thin piece of metal like that and it only had one green and would still flex and hit the galvos a little different every time. no one is trying to insult anyone here, we can not wait to see that beast in action.

  5. #45
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    Nov 2007
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    SoCal / San Salvador / NY
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    Lightbulb

    Hey Andy -

    Really, buddy - no one is trying to 'gang up' on ya - but I, too, have to say that you should really take a step-back, and reflect on the solid, experience-based advice, here...

    I mean, you've spent (well, your well-to-do Client has spent... ) boku bux on these lasers - and you're gonna scrimp on the baseplate - the foundation of your 'castle'??? What you save in $$ now, you will lose later in constant realignment-issues / Client dissatisfaction when this things' convergence gets all separated-to-hell on the other side of the install...

    How much will the massive 'I-beams' you'd need to prevent any flex with temp-changes (which can happen - ask me sometime about how Laserscope KTPs get out of alignment when they are built on ~3/4"-thick baseplates!!)... cost + drilling / bolting, etc (unless you plan to weld aluminum...) vs spending a few extra-bux now, and just putting this on a mondo-thick plate and being done?

    Quote Originally Posted by dream beamz View Post
    no one is trying to insult anyone here, we can not wait to see that beast in action.
    ...And that's the goal - keywords being 'IN ACTION' - not 'in auction' ...

    My (yes, ok, unsolicited...) 'based-on~18-projectors-advice': don't FQ-around, do it 'RIGHT', right-off the bat - To echo several of the guys' comments - yeah, I'd put this much optical-complexity on a minimum 1/2"-thick (12.7 mm) plate of 6062 (real thermally-stable stuff) and just get-on with making this a success... I am sure you will not regret it, later...

    I think the consensus is - listen to this friendly 'wisdom from your elders', now - I don't think the advice / help will be so readily-there later, if you go 'cheap' and this thing ends-up turning into an 'alignment-nightmare' on you...

    Just a friendly 'shot in the arm' buddy...

    peace...
    j
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 12mm_Base for 2W.jpg  

    ....and armed only with his trusty 21 Zorgawatt KTiOPO4...

  6. #46
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    Dec 2006
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    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  7. #47
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    Jun 2008
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    Stockholm, sweden
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    This is going to be a really nice setup.

    Really nice blue´s.

    But what is the difference between them as the enclousure seems to be different?

    Kep the pics cming.

  8. #48
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    Belgium
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    polarity is my best guess

  9. #49
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    yeah, to combine them the beams have to be at 90 degrees to each other
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  10. #50
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    Jan 2007
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    Cupertino, California
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    I would recommend getting at least 12mm aluminum plate or even thicker. It's not terribly expensive and will save you from a lot of hassle in the future!
    CLICKY!!!

    Admin: In the immortal words of Captain Planet: YOU HAVE THE POWER
    Admin: (To quit being a bitch)

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