Member
Nice thing about 2part epoxy is that it softens when it gets over 80DegC, so you can hold a soldering iron against the glue join for a bit and the optic can just pop off without any damage .
Just remember to scratch up the aluminium surface you're glueing to - so the epoxy has something to "key" onto, and give it a clean with acetone before glueing, sometimes anodizing can leave a film of muck on the surface.
B.
Member
Deutsch :Ich war im Glauben nur in Deutschland gebe es Laser Kinder.
Grundplatte 2 mm oder 1/10 Zoll für 3 Watt.
Spende Dein Geld besser Greenpeace statt damit Unfug zu treiben.
Translat :I was in the faith only in Germany if there is laser children. Baseplate 2 mm or 1/10 inches for 3 watts. To do donation your money better Greenpeace instead of with it nonsense.
-------------------------------------------------
Gento
Senior Member
Hi,
Can I ask what made you choose 650 red with the after burner beam look at 2 x 800 mw each combined (or less I guess after losses)..
Why not 640 red in say Kvant at 900mw at 3mm beam size or the Swisslas 1 watt 640 at 3mm.. or the Arctos units. etc etc.. no beam combining necessary, already done.
Dollar wise there wouldnt be a lot in it (given you had to buy two units +optics) and you would get that somewhat nicer beam and if I am not wrong brighter per mw.
How much of that fat red is not going to lie within the blue / green narrow beam so a good white is going to be hard to get isn't it ??
How much effect is this going to have on your true balanced output power with say 50% of the beam ( overspill) not in the mix ??
I am looking at reds right now myself so am interested in the the thought process that lead you down this path.. (absolutely no critism intended here just learning as always)
By the way I agree with the others ... best wishes in the world, but that base plate man !!
Flex and heat will be your enemy that much I have learn't so far..
Good luck hope it all works out .. thanks for the posts it interesting watch ing others do their thing.
Ray
NZ
Senior Member
Where am I going to find a car that hot where I live...Originally Posted by buffo
Senior Member
Hot glue melts very easily, even just rubbing 2 hot glue sticks together makes them begin to stick! It also tends to be abit rubbery, you don't want any optics moving in this thing!!
*This space intentionally left blank*
It is my impression that hot glue should only be used in the short term as it does move around and is prone to heat-related issues.
I agree that certain epoxy compounds are the way to go. As far as a specific type, I don't remember specifically which one was ideal.
-Jonathan
el gringo loco
Hey Kats -
Yeah, hot-melt is definitely ONLY for 'positional-tacking' / temp-hold use - especially for mission-critical alignment-components like a PBS cube - same for silicone - best only for non-alignment-critical stuff like an AR-window, or to seal for dust / fog-proofing...
I find hot melt is also good for 'locking-in' wires to DB-XX shells, so, even with time / a strain-relief installed, despite lots of on/off's, twisting etc, they stay nice and 'potted'...(but not impossible to remove if need-be)... also good for electrically-isolating super-close proximity soldered-stuff / protecting electronically-sensitive areas from finger-touches; 'raw' / exposed 110V-points that you might encounter with a 'knuckle',etc, while adjusting things while-running, etc, etc...
Best use a good, high-temp-resistant 5-min 2-part epoxy - Loctite / JB Quick, etc, etc... as has already been posted by several - I am simply adding ato epoxy, and
for hot-melt / sillycone for alignment-criticals....
And while we're on the 'epoxy-channel' for a minute, the best applicators are those long wood-stick cotton-swabs - TIP: save the used / dirtied ones when you finish cleaning your galvo mirrorsand when you need to apply epoxy to a real 'fine' / tiny area, 'snap' the dirty cotton-head off, and then 'snap' the stick at a shallow angle, with a slight twist - you should get 2 nice, long 'slivers' that are perfect for applying epoxy to real-tiny areas (like a galvo-mirror, or tiny PBS / lens, etc) - yeah, sure, you can use a 'toothpick' but this method gives you a nice, long 'reach' and a super-fine / needle-like applicator... just a friendly tip...
But as we've seen, 'Cap'n Andy will do what Cap'n Andy will do' - maybe hot melt the flex-preventing I-beams to the baseplate??...
...'yeeeah, thaat's the ticket!'
...Just teasin' ya Andy - nothin ill-meant, m8...nice work, pal...
peace...
j
Last edited by dsli_jon; 12-02-2008 at 01:23. Reason: sp
....and armed only with his trusty 21 Zorgawatt KTiOPO4...
Senior Member
Hi,
Can I ask what made you choose 650 red with the after burner beam look at 2 x 800 mw each combined (or less I guess after losses)..
Why not 640 red in say Kvant at 900mw at 3mm beam size or the Swisslas 1 watt 640 at 3mm.. or the Arctos units. etc etc.. no beam combining necessary, already done.
Dollar wise there wouldnt be a lot in it (given you had to buy two units +optics) and you would get that somewhat nicer beam and if I am not wrong brighter per mw.
How much of that fat red is not going to lie within the blue / green narrow beam so a good white is going to be hard to get isn't it ??
How much effect is this going to have on your true balanced output power with say 50% of the beam ( overspill) not in the mix ??
I am looking at reds right now myself so am interested in the the thought process that lead you down this path.. (absolutely no critism intended here just learning as always)
By the way I agree with the others ... best wishes in the world, but that base plate man !!
Flex and heat will be your enemy that much I have learn't so far..
Good luck hope it all works out .. thanks for the posts it interesting watch ing others do their thing.
Ray
NZ
no real reason other than laserwave make a very good qulaity laser. im sure theres a million other reds out there that have a better beam spec than these ones, but are they build well and are they going to last? i dont know!
the loss of combining two reds is tiny, i bet money no one could tell the loss of 10-20mw with there eye. say i loose up to 30mw of red once combined, im gona be getting 1570mw, you just wont notice the loss.
im sure no matter what i post, buy or do someone wont agree and can do it better or knows of a better laser.
but hey ho thats life!
dont worry i pretty much ignore you now!But as we've seen, 'Cap'n Andy will do what Cap'n Andy will do' - maybe hot melt the flex-preventing I-beams to the baseplate??...
...'yeeeah, thaat's the ticket!'
...Just teasin' ya Andy - nothin ill-meant, m8 ...nice work, pal...
Eat Sleep Lase Repeat
Senior Member
Where did you get those mirror/PBS mounts from Andy?
Senior Member
Some great tips there, thanks, its answered a few of my questions... but where is the usual DSLI Photo???Hey Kats -
Yeah, hot-melt is definitely ONLY for 'positional-tacking' / temp-hold use - especially for mission-critical alignment-components like a PBS cube - same for silicone - best only for non-alignment-critical stuff like an AR-window, or to seal for dust / fog-proofing...
I find hot melt is also good for 'locking-in' wires to DB-XX shells, so, even with time / a strain-relief installed, despite lots of on/off's, twisting etc, they stay nice and 'potted'...(but not impossible to remove if need-be)... also good for electrically-isolating super-close proximity soldered-stuff / protecting electronically-sensitive areas from finger-touches; 'raw' / exposed 110V-points that you might encounter with a 'knuckle',
Best use a good, high-temp-resistant 5-min 2-part epoxy - Loctite / JB Quick, etc, etc... as has already been posted by several - I am simply adding a
And while we're on the 'epoxy-channel' for a minute, the best applicators are those long wood-stick cotton-swabs - TIP: save the used / dirtied ones when you finish cleaning your galvo mirrors
j
Dissapointed
Mark
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