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Thread: Jem's old RGB becomes my new RGB

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post
    Hey Carl, it looks like it will be a nice one. I see layout for almost everything but no color correction board? For your RGB you might want to lay out a little space for a vertical version to get your color modulation all timed up equally
    May be in the future but just want to get her up and running first and thanks for your kind comments. I belive Rob Stanwax has just such a board design I could look at when the time comes.

    Carl

  2. #22
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    Looks nice carl, you may want to add some heatsinks to help carry heat away from the base plate ...

    Thanks for the info gus, that's something I've been wondering about too.
    Does anybody got an approximate diode current for 100mW 473 and 200mW 532 both CNI?
    thanks

  3. #23
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    Cheers 4D. Rob Stanwax also mentioned adding Heat Sinks to the base plate just to give the fans more surface area to blow air across. If they fit I will use the heat sink base of the Lab PSU. Should do the trick.

    I've made some more progress with the projector today getting most of the upper components fitted and the mains wiring complete. Other things have to be dealt with now so will get some photos posted later today.

    Carl

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by FourDee View Post
    Does anybody got an approximate diode current for 100mW 473 and 200mW 532 both CNI?
    Neils
    Dunno about a 200mW green but suspect they may have a 2W pump as in the 100mW blues. The CNI 2W pump is good for about 2.5-2.7A most come from the factory @ around 2A (sometimes a little more but not much). You may feel brave and ease it up a touch just remember that the pot works in reverse so CW is down and CCW is up! If you dont know already measure volts across the 0R33 resistor and use ohms laws to calculate the current.
    Also - I'm not disputing Gus and would certainly check before assuming but many CNI drivers have a zener (1.22V) feed to the current control pot therefore the input volts shouldnt matter - but like I say - check it!

    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
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  5. #25
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    As promised a couple of photos of a more populated projector case.
    Attachment 7106
    Attachment 7107

    @ Rob. Are these the zeners on the drivers that you are referring to?

    The Green Driver
    Attachment 7108
    The Blue Driver
    Attachment 7109

    Carl

  6. #26
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    Just an update to bring you all up to speed on progress so far.

    A very valid concern about running the lasers from one 5v psu has been put to bed today. I was concerned that this was going to mess up the whole build but with thanks to some very good advice from Rob on how to go about double checking that no damage was going to be inflicted on the lasers, I got to the bottom of it. The big concern was weather the laser diode amps would increase and kill the diode. The GOOD NEWS is that the diode amps do not move at all. I can't say this for all lasers but with CNI lasers it dose not seem to be an issue but double checking is always good advice. Thanks to Gooeygus for highlighting this concern in the first place.

    The few jobs left to do now is fit the mirror to bounce the green which is coming from Rob, Wire up the modulation feeds, line up the optics, Oh and buy or make an ILDA lead.

    Carl

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl B View Post
    Just an update to bring you all up to speed on progress so far.

    A very valid concern about running the lasers from one 5v psu has been put to bed today. I was concerned that this was going to mess up the whole build but with thanks to some very good advice from Rob on how to go about double checking that no damage was going to be inflicted on the lasers, I got to the bottom of it. The big concern was weather the laser diode amps would increase and kill the diode. The GOOD NEWS is that the diode amps do not move at all. I can't say this for all lasers but with CNI lasers it dose not seem to be an issue but double checking is always good advice. Thanks to Gooeygus for highlighting this concern in the first place.

    The few jobs left to do now is fit the mirror to bounce the green which is coming from Rob, Wire up the modulation feeds, line up the optics, Oh and buy or make an ILDA lead.

    Carl
    very good news indeed! I've always wanted to 'hack apart' my power supply as you have, so I wouldn't have to worry about using both boards in my projector. When I realized that the little yellow pot effected diode current as well as my tec settings, heck even the speed of the little fan in the psu (basically just upped the voltage on everything!), I got a bit nervous and figured I was just stuck using the DC power supply that came with the laser, unless I matched the voltage exactly. Thanks for taking the steps to lay my fears to rest

    So just so I'm totally clear on this, you're using only one board out of the blue supply and then powering all the lasers from one 5v supply, right?

  8. #28
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    Hi GG

    I have stripped down two of these Lab PSUs, One for the Blue and One for the 671 Red also DPSS and the OEM Green. All 3 of these are now running off One 20A 5v swps. As I said in my last post this seems to be the case for CNI lasers but always good to check first.

    Carl

  9. #29
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    Hi Carl.
    Your baby seems growing up very nice way and it's a very clean job also.

    What about dimensions of aluminium baseplate and case ?
    (that's because for my next re-make I'm thinking about something like your...)

    Thanks & Greets

    Steve
    my webpage
    http://stevemilani.jimdo.com
    Skype ID: stevemilani957

    my RGB analogue projectors:
    3.9 W (640/532/445) 30kpps
    2.6 W (655/532/450) 30kpps
    2.5 W (638/532/450) 30kpps
    0.7 W (test unit)(635/532/473) 18kpps

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Milani View Post
    Hi Carl.
    Your baby seems growing up very nice way and it's a very clean job also.

    What about dimensions of aluminium baseplate and case ?
    (that's because for my next re-make I'm thinking about something like your...)

    Thanks & Greets

    Steve
    Hi Steve

    The base plate is 12mm Ally and the dimensions are W-425mm, D-375mm and I have 90mm of head room above deck and 25mm below. Hope this is of help to you and thank for your kind comments.

    Carl

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