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Thread: 20W / 20J laser power meter

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Cleveland, Ohio
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    Default 20W / 20J laser power meter

    Up for sale is a clean Scientech model 365 with matching head model 360101. This is the same model meter that I use for general logging/measurement. It has some nice features including 4 ranges 20 mW, 200mW, 2W, 20W, chart recorder analog output, and RS232 serial output that can be logged with hyperterminal and displayed in excel. I have just calibrated the power measuring ranges using the manufacturer's manual and original sensor calibration sheet to about +/- 1% and tuned up the response time to be reasonably fast. Accurate measurements in about 4-5 seconds. It has been my backup unit but it turns out I don't need a backup unit

    The sensor is in pristine new condition, in original factory bag. Based on the FDA equipment tag I believe it was either used by the FDA for tests or more likely based on its unused condition and low serial number it was submitted to them as a hardware sample and then stored away.

    Included:
    -Scientech 365 digital power meter with RS232
    -Scientech volume absorbing head 380101
    -Power and sensor cord
    -RS232 cord
    -Original factory sensor calibration sheet with absorption and cal values
    -Reprinted 365 user and cal manual




    Consider this and PM an offer if interested

    PMs preferred.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    1,009

    Default

    damn man

    all these things i still want/need and so little money

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Cupertino, California
    Posts
    2,130

    Default

    That's a nice meter!


    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post
    Up for sale is a clean Scientech model 365 with matching head model 360101. This is the same model meter that I use for general logging/measurement. It has some nice features including 4 ranges 20 mW, 200mW, 2W, 20W, chart recorder analog output, and RS232 serial output that can be logged with hyperterminal and displayed in excel. I have just calibrated the power measuring ranges using the manufacturer's manual and original sensor calibration sheet to about +/- 1% and tuned up the response time to be reasonably fast. Accurate measurements in about 4-5 seconds. It has been my backup unit but it turns out I don't need a backup unit

    The sensor is in pristine new condition, in original factory bag. Based on the FDA equipment tag I believe it was either used by the FDA for tests or more likely based on its unused condition and low serial number it was submitted to them as a hardware sample and then stored away.

    Included:
    -Scientech 365 digital power meter with RS232
    -Scientech volume absorbing head 380101
    -Power and sensor cord
    -RS232 cord
    -Original factory sensor calibration sheet with absorption and cal values
    -Reprinted 365 user and cal manual




    Consider this and PM an offer if interested

    PMs preferred.
    CLICKY!!!

    Admin: In the immortal words of Captain Planet: YOU HAVE THE POWER
    Admin: (To quit being a bitch)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Marysville, WA
    Posts
    855

    Default

    Just curious, have you ever opened it up to look at the guts of it?

    Does it have the really long (like 16-pin) switches for the front buttons?

    Sorry for the semi threadjack... I just have a really nice 365 here but one of the buttons is messed up and I cant figure out what I need to do to fix it or just make a few solder connections to keep it on one range permanently

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio
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    Default

    Hi, yes it has long-ish multi-switches for the ranges. If you can specify the mode and switch position you want I can measure the switch contact continuity on the other scientech for your solder fix.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    1,769

    Default

    For the curious.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00600.JPG  

    DSC00602.JPG  

    DSC00603.JPG  


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Cupertino, California
    Posts
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    Default

    As always, you are the best!
    CLICKY!!!

    Admin: In the immortal words of Captain Planet: YOU HAVE THE POWER
    Admin: (To quit being a bitch)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Marysville, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post
    Hi, yes it has long-ish multi-switches for the ranges. If you can specify the mode and switch position you want I can measure the switch contact continuity on the other scientech for your solder fix.
    Sweet! I just need the 2W range. That would be AWESOME if I could get this thing going. You're the man!

  9. #9
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    Oct 2006
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    Cleveland, Ohio
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    Ok, the switches have 12 pins each, arranged in two rows of 6. Each row of 6 is devided into two contactor groups of 3 pins - 3 pins toward the front is a group and 3 pins toward the rear is also. In the on position, all three pins in the group are continuous (shorted), while in the off position the rearmost pin (towards the back of the unit) is disconnected from the other two, which remain shorted. The 4 groups remain isolated as far as the switch is concerned in both positions.

    So, that should tell you all you need to know to get it soldered up the way you want it!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Marysville, WA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by drlava View Post
    Ok, the switches have 12 pins each, arranged in two rows of 6. Each row of 6 is devided into two contactor groups of 3 pins - 3 pins toward the front is a group and 3 pins toward the rear is also. In the on position, all three pins in the group are continuous (shorted), while in the off position the rearmost pin (towards the back of the unit) is disconnected from the other two, which remain shorted. The 4 groups remain isolated as far as the switch is concerned in both positions.

    So, that should tell you all you need to know to get it soldered up the way you want it!


    So to turn one range on I just short all the pins in each group together, so that every pin on the switch would be shorted? You say the groups are 3 and 3, so I'm guessng that those two groups of three also correspond to the two groups of three directly across from them (on the same switch) if that makes sense.

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