Mini 532nm projector

[JRGixxerfreaK1]

Well I like the 2nd mockup more
Everything on the base fits snug
Got the scrap part again for the ILDA port and the dip switch ....
If I had the DAC , I want to get rid of the DMX board and save more space
again you see a playing card supporting between the top plate and the psu
hehe that is just temporary haha
good thing is that I manage to get the cables through the existing holes
and is also an good idea for the air to go through those holes? but I guess it wont be efficient so I might find a place to intall few of the small fans

[Doc]

Baseplate's too thin

[JRGixxerfreaK1]

Baseplate's too thin

HEAVY DUTY hehe

To be honest, to me it reassembles like a Burger hahaha

[SideFX]

guys..
I got a problem!
How can I tap a screwthread? hahahah im stuck lol
I mean I cant make a thread to the block
is there any ways how to do a tapping or another solution?

You don't know which tools to use for this?

The process is called 'thread cutting' .. or tapping

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_and_die#Tap

good luck!

[JRGixxerfreaK1]

Thanks alot!
hope I can find it in hardware store

[-bart-]

Guess I'm a bit too late, but why don't you use the optical baseplate upside down, and use it as the cover at the same time.

[JRGixxerfreaK1]

Hey bart yea I tried that but I didnt like the looks of it hehe

heres the unit runing on lame o dmx and a hookah smoke :P

again just temporary ill do it later with the casings

[buffo]

Hi JRGixxerfreaK1;

I've never messed around with any of Norm's controllers, so I'm not sure about the suitability of the FSX 1.1 for your project. I did take a look at the info on Norm's website, and I see that it uses a USB port, so at least it should be immune to the "freezing" effects that the old Parallel port DAC used to be plagued with. (All parallel port DACs suffer from that problem, because on a PC the data flow to the parallel port can be interrupted for several seconds for routine tasks like mouse clicks, hard disk access, etc, and this causes the scanners to freeze in position for a few seconds.) But beyond that, I can't really say much. Maybe someone else here has experience with that unit.

Looks like you're well on your way to completing the projector though. If you have a reasonable amount of air space inside you won't need more than a single fan. The laser doesn't generate much heat, and neither do the scanners. The scanner amps might get a bit warm, but if you have a little bit of airflow through the case you'll be fine. There's certainly no need for more than one fan though (provided you have vent holes somewhere for the air to enter). But if you pack it together very tightly, then you might need more than one fan to force air through the internals.

As for cutting threads in a metal plate, as SideFX mentioned, the tool you need is called a "tap". A tap will cut female threads in a hole. On the other hand, a "die" will cut male threads in a solid rod. Note that you need to drill the hole slightly smaller than normal so the tap will have some metal left to cut into.

Most tap and die sets will have a chart telling you which size drill bit to use for each size tap. Some sets even include the correct size drill bit. Shop around and you'll find plenty of options, but be warned that tap and die sets can get expensive.

Another option is to put a bolt all the way through the material and screw a nut onto the back side. This is often much easier than trying to tap the hole, but it does have the disadvantage of leaving the nut exposed on the other side. If you can live with the look, it might save you a lot of work.

Adam

[JRGixxerfreaK1]

Hey Adam
Thanks for the advice!

Well I just want to make sure how is the FSX 1.1 since I read some good things about it on PL like its good price value and the software seems
easy for me but down side is that it only supports TTL not analog
and it only has 8bit voltage resolution , correct me if im wrong

I would really like to get the FB3 but later, I need to save a few buck$
after my case is done , I hope I will be building a RGV in my existing case
cramming everything up hehe

BTW I got myself a Tapping screw thingy set from the tool store
im happy

Well Hopefully ill be drilling and tapping tomorrow hehe

cheers
Philipp

[Lazerjock]

Nice job JRGixxerfreaK1.

Since it sounds like you never used a tap set before, I thought I would give you a quick lesson on how to use it.

First like Buffo said you need to get the right drill bit for the tap you want to use.
After you drill the hole, start turning the tap into the hole about 1/2 a turn then back up about 1/4 turn. This cleans the tap of the metal you just cut, you will feel it get easier as you backup. That is how you know its OK to continue.

If you are not careful you might break a tap. Depending on where it breaks will determine how hard it is to remove. I know I've broken my share of taps. Usually I can grab the broken piece with pliars and back it out.

The key is to go slow.

I also use cutting oil although aluminum is self lubricating and not required it makes the job much easier. If you have it WD-40 works as cutting oil. Just spray it on the tap and in the hole. You can never have too much cutting oil.

Good Luck. I hope I'm not too late with this information.

Lazerjock