I'm helping a friend build a driver board for a GM20 but it appears to be dead. I've put 5-12V@1A across pins 1 and 2 and get no actuation. However, I'm reading a coil impedance of 49 ohms. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Adam
I'm helping a friend build a driver board for a GM20 but it appears to be dead. I've put 5-12V@1A across pins 1 and 2 and get no actuation. However, I'm reading a coil impedance of 49 ohms. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Adam
[QUOTE=300EVIL;124626]I'm helping a friend build a driver board for a GM20 but it appears to be dead. I've put 5-12V@1A across pins 1 and 2 and get no actuation. However, I'm reading a coil impedance of 49 ohms. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Adam[/\\
Is it wired green to black and driven red to yellow? For most of them that would be 49 ohms.
When GM20s dont move, you can often make up a little jig to recenter the torsion bar and recover motion.
Spex: http://www.camtech.com/products/Spec...PenMotors.html
http://www.camtech.com/products/Spec..._736-49506.pdf
Directions to getting Jiggy with it sent in a pm. (why did I just think of Will Smith???)
Steve
Qui habet Christos, habet Vitam!
I should have rented the space under my name for advertising.
When I still could have...
300evil, did you get the gm-20 to work? Alot of times it's difficult to tell if it's actuating unless you have something on the shaft. If you don't have a flag to mount to the shaft, just put a piece of tape on it.
Don't forget to add a reverse polarity diode in parallel with the gm-20 to handle the back EMF. And 1N400x will do. Also, if you're going to use this for a shutter, you should add a capacitor in parallel, this will severely reduce bounce.
At 5V it's only pulling 100mA so a 1A supply is plenty big. Also, at 5V, it's not moving much, only a couple degrees. In my projector, with a 2-1/4 inch flag, it's just enough to get the flag out of the beam path.