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Thread: KAM DMX Star Cluster 3D upgrade/modifications

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default KAM DMX Star Cluster 3D upgrade/modifications

    I've had a lot of help on this photonlexicon forum from fellow members, and I'd thought I'd contribute something myself that might help other members. Posting this on here was a bit of an after thought, so sorry if the description/pictures are a bit hard to follow.

    DISCLAIMER: This is for education purposes only, I dont recommend that anyone does any of this.

    The red on my KAM DMX Star Cluster 3D had faded significantly from, new to perhaps 50% brightness, so I decided to beef it up with a LOC diode.

    Here is what the fixture looks like inside (after removing the black cylindrical red diode module, which used to house the driver board, and putting it inline and cable tieing it to other cables.)


    I opened it up, and took the red laser module out (the black bits in the next picture that arent made of silver or red aluminium/steel).

    The knurled black bit was easily pulled off the main housing. The main housing held the driver board. I took out the diode, and kind of replaced it with a flat headed nail. I put the knurled part in the vice, and using pliers pulled out the part that is attached to the nail in the picture above.

    I couldnt figure out how to get out the brass insert(I'd have to do this to focus the new diode), fortunately, an aixiz module fits nicely into the knurled part. I pressed the new LOC diode into the aixiz module using paste, and then put the aixiz module into the knurled part using paste. Using pliers the bit of aixiz module sticking out can be twisted to focus the diode. The bits with with the nail attached, and the larger part of the aixiz module are now surplus.

    The driver board was previously set to 150mA, so I guesstimate that when new, the raw output of the closed can red was probably about 75mW, although I reckon that it was about half this when I took it apart.

    The driver board could be adjusted from 100mA-200mA. After reading up on data sheets for the components involved, I could see that they should be good for upto 700mA. I shorted this (roughly 6.7kohm) resistor using a bit of wire..


    This left the (roughly 10kohm) potentiometer to set the current, which could be started at 200mA, and quickly went up to 400mA(I didnt go further than this, as I didnt want to find out what happenned if you turn the potentiometer all the way round!). I fitted the LOC, and set it to 350mA. The diode now outputs roughly 220mW. I reassembled it, and it now looks like this...


    Compared with my laser scanners this diode will be a piece of cake to replace if/when it burns out again.

    I thought that the green pattern was quite overpowering before, and that it didnt have enough 'stars', so before I put the case back, I glued on a few 2 500 lines/cm diffraction gratings at right angles...



    I put it all back together, and it looks a lot better. I'll post a little video clip of what it does when I get a chance.

  2. #2
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    Looks good, now lets see some pictures of it working!

    I've got one question for you... what is the grey stuff you used in the 4th picture called? The stuff that electrically isolates but conducts thermally...

  3. #3
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    Don't know if its the same stuff but I'm sure Artic Silver does that (compund for use when seating CPU coolers to CPU's).

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mliptack View Post
    Looks good, now lets see some pictures of it working!

    I've got one question for you... what is the grey stuff you used in the 4th picture called? The stuff that electrically isolates but conducts thermally...

    Look up sil pad.

    chad


    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.


  5. #5
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    White-Light,

    Arctic Silver is not the same stuff. Arctic is a great thermal conductor, but is also electrically conductive. The stuff I am trying to figure out the name for is the same stuff that comes with the flexmod and die4drive drivers for their heatsinks (so that the heatsink is not electrically live)

    It is also (from what I understand) the same stuff used to electrically isolate the Maxyz module diodes from the black heatsink. I need it to isolate my Aixiz modules from my new combiner kit that Pat built for me

    Chad,

    That looks like the stuff, do they sell it in tube forms? I was thinking about just using heat shrink over my Aixiz modules... If have experience with the stuff or if anyone has any suggestions let me know. I have never used the stuff before...

    Regards,
    Max

  6. #6
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    I was thinking about just using heat shrink over my Aixiz modules...
    Just an FYI, this was only going to be a temporary solution for my modules, just to get my 350-400mw-ish of 405nm up and running

  7. #7
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    It's mica

    I think you can buy silicon versions too.

  8. #8
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    Got a good source for it?

    Not only am I trying to figure out what it is, but more importantly I am looking to buy a sheet of it (ASAP). Like an 8.5x11" sheet or a square foot of it. I really probably only need about a 1"x6" strip but I'd like to have some extra for other projects that come up.

    If anyone has any extra I would be willing to buy it off of them. Or trade for something.

    Cyaniron, sorry for kinda hijacking your thread.... I am still waiting for pictures of it in operation!

  9. #9
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    Sep 2009
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    mliptak,
    no problem,
    I'll be out with it tonight, so I'll take a video of it .

  10. #10
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    Here is a short video clip which shows the new green pattern. You cant tell the red is any brighter than before, as I dont have an old video, you'll just have to trust me

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gf1HAn_d73E

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