Now to put it back together :)

[kecked]

I bought all of laser artistry's library and have all the tapes and his equipment..... free to a good home. You pay shipping and send me a copy in adat or other form.

[swamidog]

nice!

"the myth of the killer ape is true"

I bought all of laser artistry's library and have all the tapes and his equipment..... free to a good home. You pay shipping and send me a copy in adat or other form.

[Photonbeam]

...Also what did the Fc and Sh stand for? On the DV system decoder there is x+ x- and y+ but no y- on the front patch, the unit is hardwired out the back, manual seems to indicate balance connections but the missing at least on the front y- side was confusing.

Will have this fired up tomorrow. Have the day off so I'll play with it. Just kinda glancing it over in spare time. To be ready to connect up everything.

FC is flutter compensation. SH is shutter. Signals are single ended. X+ and X- was for front or rear screen projection. They figured you wouldn't need to reverse Y.

[polishedball]

Well one decoder works perfect and one svhs. Promised my brother I'd wait till he could come over to test the laser system, rack and playback on it so will have an update on that tomorrow. But here is proof it can be dubbed archived to ADAT, HD24, or Digital wavs in a DAW.

[polishedball]

And a better shot of the rack gear.

[polishedball]

Have the system up and running, one problem I have no color modulation. It is not a decode issue as I can take it to a ilda connector and run fine on my solid state projectors from the input to the AOM's driver not the actual AOM(didn't try that) I have 28v DAC feeding the actual aoms, but the lasers are always on no blanking. Disconnecting the AOM rf lines the projector acts the same as with them connected.

Could someone enlighten me on how an AOM works or how to trouble shoot. It appears I have the DC voltage for operation present, and an input voltage on the BNC, but I don't seem to get any changes in the output it is always on. How does the part in the beam path usually function? If no signal applied does it pass the beam? Any hints on standard operation appreciated. Hope I'm over looking the obvious, but really seems odd that the problem is on all colors. I swapped the only opamp on the driver card, also checked the opamp voltages they are correct per the manual. Confused

Will be patching in a reel-reel to make some dub outs, to reel and ADAT for test tapes for another system.

[Photonbeam]

With no signal and/or no power to the AOM the beam passes right through (the zero order). If the AOM is functioning, a "beam on" signal produces a first order beam beside the zero order seperated by a small angle. Tweak the Bragg angle for the strongest first order beam. It's this first order beam that is picked off and sent on to the color combining optics and scanners. The amplitude of the RF determines the amount of light diverted into the first order. The frequency of the RF determines the angle between the zero and first order beams. The RF frequency is fixed in an AOM. I always started by applying a low frequency (2-3 hz) on/off signal and watching for blinking. The crystal has a sweet spot.

[polishedball]

With no signal and/or no power to the AOM the beam passes right through (the zero order). If the AOM is functioning, a "beam on" signal produces a first order beam beside the zero order seperated by a small angle. Tweak the Bragg angle for the strongest first order beam. It's this first order beam that is picked off and sent on to the color combining optics and scanners. The amplitude of the RF determines the amount of light diverted into the first order. The frequency of the RF determines the angle between the zero and first order beams. The RF frequency is fixed in an AOM. I always started by applying a low frequency (2-3 hz) on/off signal and watching for blinking. The crystal has a sweet spot.

Thanks for that info, is the input to the AOM (brick with in out) from the driver( color control board) usually just a DC voltage? Then that block converts it to RF and is feed to crystal. If so what DC voltage should I see at the input? Only getting .6 to 1.2v DC at the input coax. On a meter, not a scope.


Thanks

[polishedball]

Ok I injected 5v DC to the modulation lines and could see the green shift slightly and miss the scanners opposite action as I wanted but expected as I aligned the straight pass beams with no modulation to hit the scanners. When I started they were hitting already but not aligned. I only saw this action on the green, but it worked on green no matter if driven by the red or blue lines, so at least I know the electronic for the color panel and the e402 modules are good. Perhaps 2 crystals are bad?

Does my logic seem correct? Will play more over the weekend with my new basement heater.

[swamidog]

you probably just need to align the crystal properly in relation to the beam. it is somewhat unintuitive.

i don't know what sort of brag mount you're using, but they often have little screws on them. try twiddling the. you should see the color of the deflected light change.

Ok I injected 5v DC to the modulation lines and could see the green shift slightly and miss the scanners opposite action as I wanted but expected as I aligned the straight pass beams with no modulation to hit the scanners. When I started they were hitting already but not aligned. I only saw this action on the green, but it worked on green no matter if driven by the red or blue lines, so at least I know the electronic for the color panel and the e402 modules are good. Perhaps 2 crystals are bad?

Does my logic seem correct? Will play more over the weekend with my new basement heater.