Controlling a Lasos PSU?

Greetings from So. Cal. again,I have a Lasos LGN 7872-02F power supply,and an S.P. 163-A1202 Argon head. They do have mate together(cable-wise) and I was told they should be compatible,TY Steve.
The question is that the pinout from Lasos shows no way of controlling the head,only monitoring it,other than setting it to current/light control,run/idle,interlock,etc.

The DB-25 remote interface port has similar pinout to my Uniphase argon,however I see no specific means to adjust the output,as is possible with the Uniphase.

Maybe I'm missing it in the translation from German?
I have the pdf of the manual but don't know how to link to it,so if anyone can shed some light?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

Maybe I'm missing it in the translation from German?
I have the pdf of the manual but don't know how to link to it,so if anyone can shed some light?

Thanks in advance,
Mike[/QUOTE]

Can you put the manual PDF where I can find it, I will tell you uniphase is most likely not the same as lasos/SP.

Steve

Hi Steve,will these help?

Its there, In English, as well, so far what I can see:

it has internal pullups to generate logical highs on the control inputs. So if you want a logic one you leave a signal floating, if you want a logic zero, you tie the signal to "return" Logical high in this case means +15 volts (OPEN COLLECTOR OR RELAY LOGIC IN THE MACHINE THAT USES THE LASER)

interlock, short pin 1 to pin 3, must be shorted before powering on.

Pin 2 , "soft" shutdown, float for laser on, ground to "return" for laser off, fast

pin 4, float for remote control, ground to "return" force standby

pin 5, ground to "return" for current mode, open circuit = light mode

pin 6 current control input, .1V per amp,

pin 7 Light control input, .1 V per milliwatt

pin 8, optical power out, 10 millivolts per mW

pin 9 , current monitor, .1 volt per amp, output

pin 13, +15V out ( use to make control voltages) 20 mA max.

14, 20,21,22, control signal " return" (signal ground, probably floats from case ground)

23 ground to return to turn off laser, float it for turn on in 30 seconds.
shuts down cathode heat (hard shutdown)

Attachment 18689

My circuit will cram all the control on one end of the potentiometer, as you learn what voltages you need, you can increase the value of the 1K resistor to use more of your potentiometer range. This is because I do not know which potentiometer "taper" and "value" you will be ordering. However you should be able to get all the parts on the diagram at a decent radio shack. The 5V zener and 1K resistor is there so you do not pull a 0 to 2.5V control input all the way to 15 volts. 5V wont hurt it.

Steve

Thank you Steve,much appreciated,,,next question is the SP 163-A1202 head I have has the ignitor/start module inside and is on pins 6,7,the 7872 psu has a trigger on pin 12,yet the head does not use 12.According to the docs Lasos and Laserdrive sent me,6,7 are + anode voltage. How is the trigger sent to the head?
Mike

This may help,the psu is a 7872,not the 7812 I thought it was!

Here they are!
If they came thru.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HD58PHD

Here they are!
If they came thru.

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Almost all heads less then 300 mW autotrigger. The circuit works like this: If the tube voltage is less then 100 volts, stop firing the ignitor. If Tube voltage greater then 100 volts, charge and fire the ignitor. The tube, when lit, acts like a big zener diode and clamps the anode voltage to less then 110 VDC for any tube that runs off a 110V line and most of the tubes that run off a 220V line. It will take me a day or two to get the German translation done of your new document. I took French, because Julie had beautiful blue eyes, Julie took French, therefore Steve took French. Also the Spanish teacher scared the hell out of me. French, was one of my bigger mistakes. So it takes me a while to plod thru the German the hard way, and Google translate, as good as it is, misses some details in technic German.

Steve

Ok,update and more questions,I've made the control with interlock,potand resistor,and flip power switch on the 7872 to on-key switch off,,,fans come on,interlock and power led's come on,and filament soon starts glowing. Turn keyswitch to on and wait,and wait,no tick noise.
The head is an SP163-A1202,
What and where to check??
Thanks
Mike

Disable the internal ignitor in the head if you value your voltmeter, See if there is 160 or so VDC or more across the tube. Can be as much as 300 VDC.

If VDC there and there is a ignitor board look for a blown unijunction. If a potted module, well, ahem, need to sub a different module. Some of the newer ones are simply common streetlight ignitors.

If NO VDC, check interlock wiring, or check PSU.

I'll look at what you posted soon, trying to survive a bit, and not having time to lurk on PL.

Where are you located?

Steve

Thanks Steve,I'm in So.Cal,so to get this right in MY mind,disconnect the two wires to the ignitor,power up and measure DC voltage across the two terminals at the rear of the tube.
Filament,correct?
The ignitor has what looks to be a spark gap,two stacked coils and a potted step-up transformer,cap. and resistor.
Will post results and pics of internals when home.
I'm hoping the tube isn't dead,I've had it awhile and just came across a psu for a good deal.

(Using the term "Good" quite loosely!)
Mike

You need the anode to cathode voltage. Danger, high voltage DC when measuring.

So from either one of the cathodes to the anode. But if you hear a soft clicking in the head, don't do the measurement, its the ignitor firing.

Steve

Dear Steve,

thank you very much for the wiring scheme. I'll see tomorrow if it works.

take care,
Joachim

You really should email Lazos with a model and serial number. They usually will reply with a pinout in a few days time.

Steve