Eye-magic Iris ColorSafe

So I was looking on the eyemagic site, looking at the galvo's as I saw rummors about it being better then DT galvo's and cheaper than DT's????

Anyway my eye spotted some other product from eyemagic, the iris colorsafe. http://www.eyemagic.gr/laser-iris-colorsafe.html

It looks really promising, even though pangolin for example has an option to do this through software and such.
What do you people think of this system?
It looks great as you are not able to tune things way to precise... Anyone got an idea who's selling this? and at what price?

I've got one, I haven't used it yet but it is well built.

I can't quiet remember but I think it is €550.

You can buy it from onestoplasershop or direct from Eyemagic.

they are not cheaper than DT gavlos, they are cheaper than cambridge scanners

problem with the colorsafe is I have heard the insertion loss is insane

:( what a waste.
Any clue why this is?
Is this huge loss really needed to get the perfect color balance?
or is this some hardware limit of the eye-magic iris colorsafe?

umm, i don't think you're supposed to stick the sensor in the main beam.

Why not use a 1% reflect 99% pass filter to pick up some of the beam and send it to the sensor ?

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Originally Posted by aijii

umm, i don't think you're supposed to stick the sensor in the main beam.

Why not use a 1% reflect 99% pass filter to pick up some of the beam and send it to the sensor ?

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I just RTFM and yes, you do stick the sensor in the beam path, right before your galvos.

So the actual unit attenuates by loosing 20% before you hit galvo *retardo for $500 I'll come up with a dirty Dicro that will do the same.. >:)

Cheers,

N.

That sounds like a huge disadvantage to make this product even worth purchasing.. why doesn't it just measure your laser modules outputs of all the module sepperate by some shutter when you press the button? so that the board of the eye-magic reads the wattages and then adjusts the modules outputs to get a perfect white.. and once your modules have heated up you just press a button and it readjusts.
that way those measurement thingy's don't have to read the output all the time and do not block much of the output... :/
Why does nobody make something like that?
A sort of shutter that once pressed it quickly measures each modules current output, then balances this out.

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Originally Posted by masterpj

That sounds like a huge disadvantage to make this product even worth purchasing.. why doesn't it just measure your laser modules outputs of all the module sepperate by some shutter when you press the button? so that the board of the eye-magic reads the wattages and then adjusts the modules outputs to get a perfect white.. and once your modules have heated up you just press a button and it readjusts.
that way those measurement thingy's don't have to read the output all the time and do not block much of the output... :/
Why does nobody make something like that?
A sort of shutter that once pressed it quickly measures each modules current output, then balances this out.

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But isn't it this a dynamic process, continuously adjusting the powers to achieve increased linearity?

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Originally Posted by taggalucci

But isn't it this a dynamic process, continuously adjusting the powers to achieve increased linearity?

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Well I mean if you think the balance would be off you would press a key where it will quickly remeasure :)
I think the eye-magic is dynamic :) but the huge drop in output power is just so bad that I would trade the dynamic bit in for something like this :)

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Originally Posted by taggalucci

But isn't it this a dynamic process, continuously adjusting the powers to achieve increased linearity?

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Yes that's right Tony.

@ masterpj Don't forget that half the reason for this board is for safety.
It will dynamically attenuate the beam below a preset horizon. Eg if you scan a circle half above the horizon and half below it will let the part above scan at full power and the
part below will be at MPE after you calibrate it (of coarse after the appropriate calcs to suit the venue).



The main beam goes through a piece of glass at 45deg which appear to be uncoated.
As I haven't used it yet I can't verify what percentage of the beam reflects into the sensor. The sensor is a clear 6 pin dil with an IR filter covering the sensor element which is 2mm in diameter and made up of 3 120deg sectors for reading the RGB levels.

Looks like a great product Kit! I would certainly prefer to use something like this than other forms of colour linearity correction if I had the cash. More so on the bigger projectors anyway.

The safety component is well designed in that it only attenuates beams of a lower velocity than others within the safe zone.

Any chance you could push each colour through the window to give us some idea of the losses?

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Originally Posted by taggalucci

Looks like a great product Kit! I would certainly prefer to use something like this than other forms of colour linearity correction if I had the cash. More so on the bigger projectors anyway.

The safety component is well designed in that it only attenuates beams of a lower velocity than others within the safe zone.

Any chance you could push each colour through the window to give us some idea of the losses?

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Sure, hopefully I should be taking delivery of my very own almost new Coherent Fieldmax II power meter and PM10 (I'll get a PM3 later for doing MPE measurements) thanks to Marc gottaluvlasers upgrading to a mega battleship new meter.

I'll keep you posted on what I find out.:)

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Originally Posted by kitatit

hopefully I should be taking delivery of my very own almost new Coherent Fieldmax II power meter

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Nice one! I look forward to hearing more [popcorn]

My CTs were made in ......ready 1998. They still going strong. No dissballance. Nothing. Work like new. CTs...well worth every penny.

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Originally Posted by kitatit

Sure, hopefully I should be taking delivery of my very own almost new Coherent Fieldmax II power meter and PM10 (I'll get a PM3 later for doing MPE measurements) thanks to Marc gottaluvlasers upgrading to a mega battleship new meter.

I'll keep you posted on what I find out.:)

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Hey kit, if you want measure losses sooner, I have an LPM now so your welcome to come test here anytime (well not while I asleep lol).

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Originally Posted by Dr Laser

My CTs were made in ......ready 1998. They still going strong. No dissballance. Nothing. Work like new. CTs...well worth every penny.

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Long after you forgot the cost, the quality remains...

I love that saying and it is so true!

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Originally Posted by dnar

Hey kit, if you want measure losses sooner, I have an LPM now so your welcome to come test here anytime (well not while I asleep lol).

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Hi Wayne, cool it will be interesting to see how closely our meters match.

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Originally Posted by kitatit

Hi Wayne, cool it will be interesting to see how closely our meters match.

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They won't match. But hey, yours is more expensive and we could calibrate mine to yours!

Hey guys,
I did some rudimentary measurements of the loss the the IRIS sensor introduces.

Now I still haven't powered the unit up, so there could be more to it, but the loss from the sensor itself looks to be in the order of 1%

The beam was 642nm and 445nm, no green as my green isn't working.

As you can see it reads 200.8mW without the sensor and 198.9mW with the sensor in the path.

I've got a model of an old partially finished projector design I did a while ago the shows how the sensor fits in the beam path.

I'll post it soon.

Thanks
Kit:)


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interesting... maybe they changed it, the person I spoke to told me the insertion loss (even wide open) was pretty substantial, and they know the product well since they have used it many times

Yeah I can't speak from experience yet.

If it does lose more power than 1% it must be in the software or settings.

I'll report back when I finally use it.