Page 7 of 13 FirstFirst ... 34567891011 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 70 of 128

Thread: NUBM44 blue- New Video

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northern Indiana
    Posts
    921

    Default

    Just looked at the way the diodes are oriented in the block...... totally screws my plan. The need to be rotated 90deg . would work for easy 4 banger as is.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Thank you for the testing information and love your videos!

  3. #63
    Bradfo69's Avatar
    Bradfo69 is offline Pending BST Forum Purchases: $47,127,283.53
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Wilmington, DE
    Posts
    6,206

    Default

    I've been following this but, since I don't have any experience with cylinder lensing or, telescopes or anything, I can't always relate. My question however, is how would one of these do by itself, strictly in a beam table? (Like a Mobolazer ML-10 for example.) Diode placed in a Aixiz style mount and perhaps like a Z-Bolt heatsink with something like a G2 lens and, a suitable driver for it to be either on or off. I don't know if it really matters if the beam is somewhat crappy, unless you're targeting bounce mirrors. But... how crappy would it be?
    PM Sent...

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,513

    Default

    Before I inserted the cylinders, the beam at 14M was 6mm wide and 150mm long. This was with both the G-2 and the G-9 lenses. I think you will need cylinders because the divergence is so high in the one axis that the uncorrected beam is already 8-9mm high in the near field and so the "expansion" with the cylinders doesn't actually increase the near field dimensions.

  5. #65
    Bradfo69's Avatar
    Bradfo69 is offline Pending BST Forum Purchases: $47,127,283.53
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Wilmington, DE
    Posts
    6,206

    Default

    Ouch! Ok, maybe I'll stick with the original plan and use a plain 9mm diode instead.

    Thanks!
    PM Sent...

  6. #66
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    1 hr from everything in SoCal
    Posts
    2,793

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bradfo69 View Post
    Ouch! Ok, maybe I'll stick with the original plan and use a plain 9mm diode instead.

    Thanks!
    For just beams, cylinders are really not that bad. Sure, for graphics, you need to align the lens pair pretty precisely and you'd also want spatial filtering but for just a beam table, it isn't nearly as critical.

    You could even knock together a cheap and simple optical train with this:
    2 of These: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SK20-20mm-Li...item27fe0f0ee5
    2 20mm OD tubes, 50mm in length: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminium-Tu...item1a02aea9a8
    Some epoxy and a cylinder pair and you are ready to rock and roll.

    It just look daunting because Eric does a lot of precision machining for his optics.
    If you're the smartest person in the room, then you're in the wrong room.

  7. #67
    Bradfo69's Avatar
    Bradfo69 is offline Pending BST Forum Purchases: $47,127,283.53
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Wilmington, DE
    Posts
    6,206

    Default

    Humm... I have the pillow blocks and I have cylinder pairs. And tubing isn't hard. Now I just have to ascertain available space for it. And figure out a driver capable of running the diode.
    PM Sent...

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,513

    Default

    That is an excellent find. You could rough cut the tube with a hack saw then clamp it and then square up the end in a mill or with a grinder or a sanding disc. Get enough for extra tubes because once you see how nice the rotating cylinder pair works you'll want to try different combinations and you don't want to have to keep removing glued optics.

    And in any case, the "low power", 9mm 445nm diodes need the cylinder pair pretty badly as well. They just result in a little tighter beam and a lower power.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,513

    Default

    And figure out a driver capable of running the diode.
    These might be worth a look.

    http://optlasers.com/en/27-high-power-drivers

  10. #70
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    1 hr from everything in SoCal
    Posts
    2,793

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bradfo69 View Post
    Humm... I have the pillow blocks and I have cylinder pairs. And tubing isn't hard. Now I just have to ascertain available space for it. And figure out a driver capable of running the diode.
    It shouldn't take much room. I set this up in about 10 minutes and, though not perfect, you can see the huge difference. The OD of the tubing would obviously depend on the size of the cylinder pair.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20150721_012953.jpg 
Views:	82 
Size:	1.28 MB 
ID:	47829

    Before:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20150721_013221.jpg 
Views:	74 
Size:	3.05 MB 
ID:	47830

    After:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20150721_013217.jpg 
Views:	75 
Size:	3.28 MB 
ID:	47831

    Quote Originally Posted by planters View Post
    You could rough cut the tube with a hack saw then clamp it and then square up the end in a mill or with a grinder or a sanding disc.
    That pretty much how I did mine. Mine isn't very precision but it is such a huge improvement.
    If you're the smartest person in the room, then you're in the wrong room.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •