Just looked at the way the diodes are oriented in the block...... totally screws my plan. The need to be rotated 90deg . would work for easy 4 banger as is.
Just looked at the way the diodes are oriented in the block...... totally screws my plan. The need to be rotated 90deg . would work for easy 4 banger as is.
Thank you for the testing information and love your videos!![]()
I've been following this but, since I don't have any experience with cylinder lensing or, telescopes or anything, I can't always relate. My question however, is how would one of these do by itself, strictly in a beam table? (Like a Mobolazer ML-10 for example.) Diode placed in a Aixiz style mount and perhaps like a Z-Bolt heatsink with something like a G2 lens and, a suitable driver for it to be either on or off. I don't know if it really matters if the beam is somewhat crappy, unless you're targeting bounce mirrors. But... how crappy would it be?
PM Sent...
Before I inserted the cylinders, the beam at 14M was 6mm wide and 150mm long. This was with both the G-2 and the G-9 lenses. I think you will need cylinders because the divergence is so high in the one axis that the uncorrected beam is already 8-9mm high in the near field and so the "expansion" with the cylinders doesn't actually increase the near field dimensions.
Ouch! Ok, maybe I'll stick with the original plan and use a plain 9mm diode instead.
Thanks!
PM Sent...
For just beams, cylinders are really not that bad. Sure, for graphics, you need to align the lens pair pretty precisely and you'd also want spatial filtering but for just a beam table, it isn't nearly as critical.
You could even knock together a cheap and simple optical train with this:
2 of These: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SK20-20mm-Li...item27fe0f0ee5
2 20mm OD tubes, 50mm in length: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminium-Tu...item1a02aea9a8
Some epoxy and a cylinder pair and you are ready to rock and roll.
It just look daunting because Eric does a lot of precision machining for his optics.
If you're the smartest person in the room, then you're in the wrong room.
Humm... I have the pillow blocks and I have cylinder pairs. And tubing isn't hard. Now I just have to ascertain available space for it. And figure out a driver capable of running the diode.
PM Sent...
That is an excellent find. You could rough cut the tube with a hack saw then clamp it and then square up the end in a mill or with a grinder or a sanding disc. Get enough for extra tubes because once you see how nice the rotating cylinder pair works you'll want to try different combinations and you don't want to have to keep removing glued optics.
And in any case, the "low power", 9mm 445nm diodes need the cylinder pair pretty badly as well. They just result in a little tighter beam and a lower power.
These might be worth a look.And figure out a driver capable of running the diode.
http://optlasers.com/en/27-high-power-drivers
It shouldn't take much room. I set this up in about 10 minutes and, though not perfect, you can see the huge difference. The OD of the tubing would obviously depend on the size of the cylinder pair.
Before:
After:
That pretty much how I did mine. Mine isn't very precision but it is such a huge improvement.
If you're the smartest person in the room, then you're in the wrong room.